Looking for a good alpine stove. Correct me if I'm wrong but the concensus seems to be butane/canister stoves are a bit lighter and more convenient to use at altitude. I am looking at the MSR pocket rocket and Snowpeak giga. Pros and cons of each? weight? durablity? efficiency? Are there any others out there that are better in this category/price range? I have an MSR Dragonfly but everything I have read seems to point to that fact that most people are using small lightweight disposable butane canister stoves on the mountain.

Thanks for the advice

Do you know about the Gear section of this site? Here's the page(s) about stoves:
http://www.summitpost.org/outdoor-gear/stoves/gear/p-55

Two real solid performers are are "Multi- Fuel" kings of High altitude, the MSR XGK and the Primus OMNIFUEL. The Primus can also use Iso-Butane Canisters.

MSR XGK EX
http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/stoves/rapid-cooking/xgk-ex/product?

Primus OMNIFUEL
http://store.primuscamping.com/backpacking-stoves/multi-fuel/omnifuel-153-stove-w/windscreen/

I believe Splattski has the MSR and I have the Primus. I know both work well in freezing cold environments.

Wait a few months, then get a Jetboil Joule when they are available:

http://www.earnyourturns.com/18445/firs ... try-stove/

If you have to have a stove right now, get the MSR Reactor.

I've used both the Pocket Rocket and Snow Peak Giga. They are both light, durable, inexpensive and get the job done. If money is not an object, you should consider Jet Boil/MSR Reactor stove kits. They are very efficient. If you are planning on climbing in the winter or in cold environments (Alaska, Antartica, etc), you will want your white gas Dragonfly.

I've used the Pocket Rocket in temps down to the mid teens(F*) without any issues, but only at relatively low altitudes(<9000ft) I just ordered a Jetboil Sol(Ti) for use during winter outings, my rationale being that it will be able to melt(large volumes) of snow quickly?The lack of mass and auto-igniter(piezo?) also seem like good attributes.
http://cascadeclimbers.com/jetboil-sol- ... errington/

At sea level isobutane volatilizes at temperatures down to about 15 degrees F and lower at higher altitudes. (Remember Boyle's Law from high school chemistry?) Butane stoves actually do better at high altitude. The relatively low altitudes and very cold temperatures of Alaska make them a poor choice. Ditto in the winter at lower elevation ranges in the lower 48. There are a number of tricks one can use to extend the temperature range of butane stoves, but some are dangerous and a white gas stove is much more reliable. I haven't used one, but I hear through the magic of engineering, MSR's Reactor does well in cold temps.

ExcitableBoy wrote:At sea level isobutane volatilizes at temperatures down to about 15 degrees F and lower at higher altitudes. (Remember Boyle's Law from high school chemistry?) Butane stoves actually do better at high altitude. The relatively low altitudes and very cold temperatures of Alaska make them a poor choice. Ditto in the winter at lower elevation ranges in the lower 48. There are a number of tricks one can use to extend the temperature range of butane stoves, but some are dangerous and a white gas stove is much more reliable. I haven't used one, but I hear through the magic of engineering, MSR's Reactor does well in cold temps.

The Reactor was on my 'short list' I must admit. I see that you mention the Dragonfly also? Perhaps I will take a closer look at those for cold weather, alpine use. I suppose I could always return the Jetboil if it doesn't function as well as I had hoped.

You could test it in cold weather here in NE WY....4 days in a row with overnight lows -20 to -30. Daytime highs -5 to 3+. It's gonna be a long one. You know it's cold when your dryer vent produces a snow drift.

Im another fan of the MSR Reactor

I'm a white-gas user. Started with a Whisperlite and now use MSR's Simmerlite. I'm can't comment on isobutane models in terms of speed and ease of use, but I prefer white gas simply because the canisters are reusable. Too much waste in the world as it is.

WyomingSummits wrote:You could test it in cold weather here in NE WY....4 days in a row with overnight lows -20 to -30. Daytime highs -5 to 3+. It's gonna be a long one. You know it's cold when your dryer vent produces a snow drift.

Good ol' Wyoming. Probably have 800 mph winds also!

I have been looking at stoves and the jetboil joule looks excellent. Otherwise, I think the reactor wins for now. I really want to be able to use an inverted canister and also have a pressure regulator at the same time. I'll probably just use the dragonfly until I can get a joule...