Help me with my goals...

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
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michellen

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by michellen » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:03 pm

I am curious to hear what they say, so please share it here when you've had a chance to talk to them. I am also curious, if you don't mind my asking, what guides you'd consider climbing Ama Dablam with. Thanks. Thanks, too, for bringing back the recent memory of going up Heartbreak Hill tired, hot and thirsty :)

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Vitaliy M.

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Vitaliy M. » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:25 pm

Do not do it guided. Pick a goal you and your partner can work up to without someone telling you when and what to do. You are a grown up. Competent mountaineer should be able to make own decisions.

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michellen

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by michellen » Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:01 pm

Thanks for sharing that Fletch. Good luck to you as you work on your goals!

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stinkydog

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by stinkydog » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:44 am

In my very humble opinion (with no experience on any of those 5 peaks), I'd say make the expedition itself your goal, rather than each summit. Because they're all pretty exotic areas of the world. Take some extra time to trek and explore. You can be the most in-shape stoked, well-equipped, and skilled mofo in the world, but there's a good chance you'll have a run of crappy weather during the allocated timespan you've been planning for years in advance. If you don't reach the summit due to whatever factor - no big deal, you'll still have a really cool experience to remember and share.

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Vitaliy M.

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:57 am

Another reason to go unguided- you can have as many summit shots as you want.

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Noondueler

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Noondueler » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:52 am

Cannot help you with goals. Mind is everything. With goals you are trapped by mind.
OK I confess I wish had such lofty goals. Shucks.

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Damien Gildea

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Damien Gildea » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:18 pm

Fletch,

If you cruised Denali then you'll have no trouble with Vinson. Most of the main guides services do it fine, though given the short timeframe of a trip there (c.12 days) sometimes, an experienced guide can make the best decision to work around any weather issues. Vinson is easy until it gets bad - then it gets real bad. Maybe you should climb Vinson soon, as later you'll feel bad spending that much money on something other than your kids ;-)

Ama Dablam? Hopefully radson can jump in and give you first-hand comparisons with Denali etc. It seems to be jumaring fixed ropes over all the rock, so not sure how much actual 'climbing' is involved. Note the ropes are there in Oct-Nov-early Dec, not in April-May when the rock is more likely to be covered in snow. Despite the ropes and crowds, it's a natural line up a stunning peak. Relatively safe and accessible, as far as Himalayan peaks go, so possibly a good one to squeeze into a month later when you have kids.

I've been on G1, not G2, though they share the route up to C1. G2 has had a few changes over the years and can be a tough climb, even when mostly fixed. Big Himalayan peaks are quite a different story to Denali, Vinson etc as they really require a decent spell of good weather, which is rare, especially up the Baltoro, and to have enough teams on the mountain to do the work necessary for most of us mortals to climb them. You have the 3rd world travel, hassle and sickness issues, longer timeframe, and even more will-sapping altitude and conditions. Very few guide companies have success on G2, despite its reputation, and so nowadays very few companies go. Manaslu is easier, though more dangerous. Not sure how justifiable any of those peaks are for a family man, opinions vary.

Logan? You can get guided up the King Trench route OK, it seems, though the east ridge is a nicer looking route. ER would be harder than Denali or Vinson, more work, just as cold. I think the KT is not without avo danger. I almost went there this year, but went to Peru instead. Logan KT is relatively quick, cheap and close for you, so another option for later with kids.

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Hotoven

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Hotoven » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:46 pm

Wait I'm confused, how did Mt. Hell Sunflower not make it on your list? Surely that should be your final goal in all this?
"Hey, careful, man, there's a beverage here!"
- The Dude, Lebowski

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Vitaliy M.

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:52 pm

Hotoven wrote:Wait I'm confused, how did Mt. Hell Sunflower not make it on your list? Surely that should be your final goal in all this?


I think you are one of the few brave people here whose real climbing list includes this magnificent peak : )


to OP..Include Khan Tengri to your list. Supposedly it was Bukareev's favorite mountain, and it rivals Ama Dablam with it's beauty. I hope to make it out there one day.

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OPHIRTODD

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by OPHIRTODD » Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:30 pm

Maybe look at it from a time away point of view, as you're looking at three very different time commitments:

G2- almost 2 months away from home
Logan, St Elias, Ama Dablam- 3-4 weeks away
Vinson- 2.5 weeks unless flights get weather delayed

I'd agree with Damien- if you had a good experience on the West Buttress, Vinson will probably feel similar. The work days are close in duration, with the "new" route to high camp being a pretty good day, similar to moving to 17.2 on the Buttress. One big difference is that down in Antarctica, you really need to take charge of your personal well being, whether you're with a guide or not down there. It can be (but not always is) significantly colder overall than on Denali, and you really need to be deliberate with your self-maintenance.

I'm not sure why someone would suggest an alpine ice course before letting you join them on Vinson, unless they just wanted to get another trip out of you. I also don't see it so much as a "lateral move." Antarctica is one of the most amazing places I've ever had the opportunity to visit. It has a tangible feeling of being "out there- waaaay out there!" That difference alone would stop it from being a lateral move. in my opinion.

I'll not take up the guided/non-guided debate, as I'm biased. Good on you for doing your research and trying to get some adventure in before the kiddos come (my best adventure to date, personally). Have fun with the process!

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Vitaliy M.

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:18 pm

Good to hear that he does. I am not sure I can keep up with you, if you have done Sunflower, but if you are in CA let me know, would be happy to try! : )

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Palisades79

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by Palisades79 » Sat Aug 13, 2011 3:30 pm

Those are grand goals but why don't you consider peaks that are less crowded and the challenge of first ascents ? I was a lot older than you when I first climbed frozen waterfalls, himalayan peaks ,big walls ,etc.

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radson

 
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Re: Help me with my goals...

by radson » Sun Aug 14, 2011 10:18 am

Howdy Fletch, I of course will try and answer any specific questions you may have. IN the meantime. Here are 2 sites that may help at least with some Questions on AD, Guided and Unguided. Also Phil's site has some great pics and info on his 2009 bid to have a crack at GI/II.

http://www.philippegatta.fr/amadablam2.htm

http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=243

Also to get a general feel for the relative difficulties of these peaks, have a peek at Jagged Globes Wesbite. They have a rundown of the relative difficulty and endurance required for each mountain.

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