F_Rhoderick wrote:

T Sharp wrote:I liked everything about my DAS Parka except for the very tight thin band elastic at the wrist, It felt so tight it might/could cut off circulation! Why they did not put in a decent cuff is beyond me, I ended up trading it to my climbing partner!
I hope yours will fit better!

...and I love it!! Thanks again.

Wear it in good health my friend!

TNF Redpoint jacket (w/ hood) does not get enough love. The jacket fits great and performs excellent. Lots of good reviews on backcountry.com

I'd recommend it for sure!

kiwiw wrote:last year I got a really good deal on a DAS. it was just for a dark kinda vomit green color, but it was half price.
I've used it here in the NW and I really like it. it stuffs down to the size of a small sleepingbag, and is extremely warm, plus being synthetic it's easier to deal with it if it gets wet. I only use it as a belay jacket or for rainier, unless it's really cold, like below 0. it worked great on the N face of chair 2 weeks ago when we ended up rapping off in the dark.

Yeah, those were overstock from a production run for the military. I picked one up as well. The only difference/downside was the hood was cut slightly different and thus the jacket won't zip up completely on me if I'm wearing a helmet. This past years models (non-military/regular production model) also had an updated synthetic material inside which shaved some weight from what I got.

It kept me very warm up to 6000m last year on Aconcagua; extended storms and illness turned us back. If you are hardened and understand how well you tolerate cold temperatures, it can be a fine jacket to take you as high as you are thinking of going. But everyone has different internal furnaces and going that high or higher you might want a nice thick 800 fill parka - plenty of people had those too.

DanielWade wrote:Down is for slow expedition climbing not for modern alpinists.

Simply not true. Americans and Scots are in love with synth jackets but most of the biggest and best climbs by the best alpinists are almost all done in down. A few have worn a DAS (esp, if they're sponsored by Pata), but DAS is bulky for its weight and warmth. Down is lighter, warmer and more compact. And if it's warm enough to rain, it's too hot to wear either.

Graziani & Trommsdorff



Babanov & Kofanov



Ueli Steck



The DAS, and many similar jackets, have elastic cuffs so that you can throw it on quicklyl at a belay in bad weather, wearing gloves, and it's instantly sealed at the wrist - you don't have to mess around with frozen velcro or tabs, wearing gloves, trying to hold gear etc.

Personally I never understood the obsession with synthetic and the whole "if it gets wet" argument either. Down compresses better and is much lighter (or warmer for a given weight, depending on how you look at it). I can see how on a multiday winter climb where you're bivying and worried about moisture you could choose synthetic, or if you are climbing in Scotland, but most of the time down makes more sense for where I climb. Go out ice climbing in Canada on a -20 or below day and see how many people have down jackets vs synthetic. Your parka will not get wet unless you don't have the hood up and snow is blowing down your neck, or through your face opening etc... and even then I've never had a problem. If you are curled up in a snow cave then maybe. But honestly it doesn't really make that much of a difference for 99% of the people, use whatever you can get cheaper.

(My favourite piece is the patagonia down parka which I chose over the DAS to replace my old trusty MEC, both were at the last clearance sale I went to, not sure why they discontinued the down one http://reviews.patagonia.com/9248/84652/reviews.htm)

Thanks for the discussion guys! Since MEC put their Tango Belay Parka (VERY similar to the DAS) on sale for CAD 199 I'll give it a try. I'll write a review on it on spgear as soon as I put it to use for some Ontario/New York ice climbing.

Sunny Buns wrote:Just googled it and read the specs. Says it is water repellent, not water proof.

Says it will keep a breeze off of you.

Sounds like a nice jacket for going out to dinner here in the Pacific Northwest.

If I'm going to the mountains I want a jacket that will keep my insulation dry in a 70 mph deluge of freezing rain, and yes, I've been in one on top of Baker. What will do that? 3 layer gortex is the only thing I trust.

IMHO, buy a 3 layer goretex rain parka and a couple of THICK fleece jackets. If you really want to be warm, buy a down jacket also. Unless you're going where it's nasty, then a down jacket will get you killed so buy a down parka in that case.

Leave the DAS at home. No insulation will keep you warm when wet.

No offense intended, but I personally feel a greater portion of the aforquoted post is speculation and not so sound advice.

I just got an Igniter jacket, they are going for about $110 . Its gonna be my belay / rest stop jacket for when temps are in the 15-30 deg range (mexico volcanoes). For anything colder I would pick any of the excellent down jackets available.

I agree with the comment if its warm enough to rain the you u dont need down. A baselayer + fleece + shell combo should be good even in 35 F deg. rain w/ wind.

Basically if it is cold enough to wear a DAS, (and you are moving a little) then all the precip is most likely snow or ice.

That being said... the best deal around is this:
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/ ... own-jacket

Most comparable to the FF Frontpoint at a price that is way lower.

I just bought it and sold my DAS. It is a little heavier than the DAS, but a lot warmer.

Can your ignitor jacket dry out your gloves like my DAS can and has?

LakeofConstance wrote:I'm thinking about getting a decent synthetic insulation jacket for 5000-6000m peaks. I read quite a bit about the DAS Parka here, seems to be most ppl's favourite. I came across the Igniter Jacket from FirstAscent while researching on the internet, has anyone made some experiences with this one? I can't really find any reviews other than those from people that are somewhat affiliated with First Ascent.

Any other SYNTHETIC insulation jackets that can keep up with the DAS?

Take a look over at Cascade Climbers lots of info on this there: Everything you want to know about the DAS, Compressor or Down.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... Post933540

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... Post930932

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... Post919030

Hi, I just got a First Ascent Igniter Jacket.

Its kinda thin but warm, very light and compresses easily. The hood is nice and large and the fit is just right. The cuffs are great with a half elastic half velcro design thats adjustable but works well when putting on the jacket quickly, seals nice and fast. Perfect as a belay / hiking/climbing jacket to go over my fleece, softshell or hardshell.

The zippers are not huge but good quality and smooth.

Overall, really good simple design and quality build materials. Certainly better than the price.

Cost was $119 on sale. Its a must buy IMHO. Perfect when a down jacket is too much. (id say this jacket along with layers is good for the 10-30 deg F range easy)

TNF Redpoint jacket (w/ hood) does not get enough love. The jacket fits great and performs excellent. Lots of good reviews on backcountry.com

I'd recommend it for sure!

I would go for the Redpoint over the Igniter if youre seeking that level of insulation. The DAS is a much bigger, warmer belay parka than the FA one that you're comparing to. My roomie has this bright yellow DAS and swears by it, especially at those 12k camps when boiling water and retrieving ice has you standing still for extended periods of time...

If you're not doing too much high altitude and know how to keep moving to keep warm, save the weight/bulk- the Redpoint will be all that you need for those belay stations. If you run cold as it is, have the space to stuff the thing in your pack for 70% of the climb and never wanna worry about being too cold at a belay/around camp- the DAS will do fine. Shop around for it though.

Just used my First ascent Igniter jacket today out in the countryside of new york state. I was almost all day out on the farm. Did some snow clearing, some snowshoeing and some photography. Wind on the higher open meadows was stiff with snow sideways almost constantly. Temp. was around 22 early and 28 late in the day. I had on polar max set of top and bottom long johns (cheap), a marmot power stretch fleece jacket (awesome too, a must have) and the Igniter jacket.

I was NEVER cold, even when standing around not doing much. If I got going and started moving quickly I got actually a bit warm but opening the igniter a bit did the trick. Also of note, the hood was essential when the wind was blowing. The jacket stops the wind quite well.

I am so happy with the jacket. I would say with a heavier fleece and nice baselayer its good down to 0F easy. With the light fleece and baselayer i had on maybe 15F deg. That is if you are just standing around. This jacket is just warmer than it looks and weights.

sneakyracer wrote:Just used my First ascent Igniter jacket today out in the countryside of new york state. I was almost all day out on the farm. Did some snow clearing, some snowshoeing and some photography. Wind on the higher open meadows was stiff with snow sideways almost constantly. Temp. was around 22 early and 28 late in the day. I had on polar max set of top and bottom long johns (cheap), a marmot power stretch fleece jacket (awesome too, a must have) and the Igniter jacket.

I was NEVER cold, even when standing around not doing much. If I got going and started moving quickly I got actually a bit warm but opening the igniter a bit did the trick. Also of note, the hood was essential when the wind was blowing. The jacket stops the wind quite well.

I am so happy with the jacket. I would say with a heavier fleece and nice baselayer its good down to 0F easy. With the light fleece and baselayer i had on maybe 15F deg. That is if you are just standing around. This jacket is just warmer than it looks and weights.

Compare to this: me - female, temps under 0F, windchills negative 30, wearing thin baselayer + R1 + DAS on a slow triple ski lift (not moving) and overheating. After couple of runs down the hill, I was soaking wet from sweat - I had to go back to the lodge, dry my parka (which takes 5 min to dry, BTW) and take off a layer. I'd say Igniter has nothing on DAS.