Hey,

I'm planning a late summer trip up Mt Shasta and am having some difficulty determining the best route for my summit bid!

I'll be there the last weekend in August and am getting some conflicting reports as to snow conditions.

Last summer, the same group and I climbed Rainier via DC, this is the high point of my glacial travel experience, though I've tacked the highest (6200ft and down) peaks in the North East during winter months and am very comfortable with snow and ice travel. I also have some basic rock climbing experience and gear although with a few exceptions, my climbs have been single pitch leads and cleans on 50ft crags.

My intention was to rope up and climb one of Shasta's glaciers but it seems that the Hotlum glacier (from North Gate / Brewer) retains the most snow, but may be more of a technical challenge than I'm prepared for.

Can anyone offer insight into good, late summer, snow routes up Shasta, and whether Hotlum is viable?

Thanks!

Justin

Would be best if you contacted the rangers a few weeks before your arrival. They usually know the all the info regarding conditions of the routes up there.

This year has been leaner than last year. I would say June is a great month to climb Shasta. Warmer, more stable weather, and still some snow...but rangers know better than anyone on this site. Call them.