If you want to avoid steeper snow completely, you can easily get to the Lyell-Maclure saddle without the need for crampons or axe. From there you can go up the ridge but have to do a couple class 4 moves. That's the way I went on a Maclure - Lyell dayhike in early August a few years ago.

Just have him rent some crampons. I always like to bring them when there's a chance I might need them.

Michael Graupe wrote:If you want to avoid steeper snow completely, you can easily get to the Lyell-Maclure saddle without the need for crampons or axe. From there you can go up the ridge but have to do a couple class 4 moves. That's the way I went on a Maclure - Lyell dayhike in early August a few years ago.

I know the guide says Class 3, but one of the moves felt more like Class 4 to me.

Glaciers are typically icy late in the season.