Hi...

Does anyone have any current information on the conditions on Middle Palisade via the NE face? I'm thinking of heading up there next weekend, and I'm wondering:
a) whether it's currently necessary to cross the Middle Pal glacier to get to the route?
b) the glacier conditions -- snow or ice, bergschrund, etc.?

Basically, can I leave the axe and crampons in the car?

Thanks,
Peter

http://piotrowski.smugmug.com/Whats-New ... 3124_BhEdD



The 'schrund crossing on 08/29/09.


We didn't bother carrying any gear.

Thanks for the information about the conditions. We had a lot of fun climbing Middle Pal yesterday.

The glacier is heavily suncupped which made climbing easy; however the bergschrund has opened up to about a foot wide. There was a snow bridge which made access to the class 2 ledge easy, but it might collapse soon making the access a bit harder. Good route, though!