Multi-pitch sport climbing in Northeast

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Stboo

 
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Multi-pitch sport climbing in Northeast

by Stboo » Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:42 am

Hi Spers,

I just came back from Rumney and i'm now addicted to mulitipitch climbing!!! I did only 2 routes that were 2-3 pitches and i wish to do more.

Do you have suggestions for some multipitch in sportclimb that are moderate difficulty (5.10 minus) that are in the Northeast?

Thanks

:o

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nartreb

 
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by nartreb » Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:47 am

Multipitch sport??? Have you no decency, man?

I can't think of any significant sport climbing around here other than Rumney, and I didn't even know Rumney had multipitch routes. (I've been there a couple of times, but sport's not really my interest.) You want multipitch, do it the right way: trad :)

Obviously I haven't looked very hard, so I could be wrong. You might want to try someplace like neclimbs.com .

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James_W

 
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Re: Multi-pitch sport climbing in Northeast

by James_W » Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:58 am

Whitehorse ledge

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Stboo

 
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by Stboo » Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:25 am

yep, I really need to get into Trad climbing you're right! Building my rack is my new way to burn money.

The are some routes in Rumney that are multipitch. Not much .... I haven't look at Whitehorse ledge!! Thanks guys :)

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Stboo

 
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by Stboo » Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:46 am

I just looked at Whitehorse ledge and 97% of the routes are trad climb. Especially multipitchers ...

I guess i need to get into trad quickly ... ;)

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James_W

 
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by James_W » Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:18 am

Lots of bolts on Whitehorse but they are far between

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Autoxfil

 
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by Autoxfil » Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:55 am

Yup, go trad around here. $1k entry fee to get them new cam things, but it's a lot of fun.

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AlexeyD

 
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by AlexeyD » Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:20 am

Honestly I don't think you'll find any sport routes longer than the 2-3 pitch ones at Rumney's Main Cliff and Orange Crush walls, anywhere in the Northeast. As for Whitehorse, I don't think that most people would consider 50-foot runouts between bolts to be "sport climbing" in the normal sense of the word.

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Jim Lawyer

 
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by Jim Lawyer » Wed Sep 15, 2010 3:50 pm

Such multi-pitch lines do exist, you just have to look for them. Some examples in the Dacks: South Face Direct on Gothics (one of the highest of this type of route in the northeast), Vertebrae on Snowy, The Shining Path on Wallface, Bear Necessities and Berry Good at Bear Den, Positive Latitude and Groovitational Pull at Potter Mountain, Slide Rules at Big Slide, and there's many at Poke-O, although they aren't .10-. If you include the odd piece of trad gear (aka "mixed" routes), then there's even more.

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AlexeyD

 
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by AlexeyD » Fri Sep 17, 2010 8:28 pm

South Face Direct on Gothics


Only in the Adirondacks would someone actually put up a sport climb with a 5-hour approach...

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JHH60

 
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by JHH60 » Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:25 pm

If you can climb trad there's lots of great routes <5.10 at the Gunks. What's cool about the Gunks is that even relatively low grade routes can be exposed and strenuous (e.g., vertical or even overhanging on 5.6).

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Jim Lawyer

 
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by Jim Lawyer » Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:49 am

AlexeyD wrote:
South Face Direct on Gothics


Only in the Adirondacks would someone actually put up a sport climb with a 5-hour approach...


Well, 3.5 hours, but still, that's what's so cool about it :-)

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Hotoven

 
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by Hotoven » Mon Sep 20, 2010 2:40 pm

There's a few two pitch climbs in South Eastern PA where I live. Although the one place all the 2nd pitch climbs are 5.12ds and up.

There's another place that has a few 2 pitch climbs that's kind of off limits unless you know the place... Message me if your interested. :D


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