by Deb » Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:31 am
by Vitaliy M. » Fri Sep 02, 2011 7:00 am
The Chief wrote:Vitaliy M. wrote:Cool, I can see everyone's point. I will not bring them, if I will slip and die blame Chad and x15x15. I understand Mark's point, but I prefer to enjoy a climb by not bringing more gear than I really need to. I actually prefer bare minimum. 1 pack that will be exchanged based on who is leading and who is following. With one jacket for each, a hat, 1L of water, some energy gels, cell phone, topo. Stash the other back pack with more food and other misc stuff at the base.
When I was climbing in the Cascades this year (doing a carry over Liberty Ridge to Emmons as you have) my pack did not weight much at all, maybe 32lbs or so with all our camping gear (although I was able to get it down to 27lbs? when I did Whitney glacier on Shasta with Chad). Jetboil, gas, 3lb tent (divided for two), +freeze dried personal food/GU, personal clothes (could have cut some weight here too), sleeping bag (+10 down bag), 1 neo air sleeping pad (14 oz), other personal accessories. Worked great, and I wouldn't want to take anything extra for any other objective there. I want to be able to consistently get my pack down to 25lbs or so for overnight technical climbs where I need to carry my stuff all day.
What do you need all the above crap for....C-C from Mosq Flats in 11 hours max. Pack with rope and pro (10 pieces & 10 Alpine Draws at the most for this route) should weigh no less than 10lbs max. If this 50plus year old can do it regularly in under 11 hours, your 24 yrs old youngass surely should be more than capable of doing so...
by Vitaliy M. » Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:14 pm
by sharperblue » Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:31 pm
by asmrz » Fri Sep 02, 2011 5:24 pm
by fatdad » Fri Sep 02, 2011 7:23 pm
The Chief wrote:The East Ridge is long but loads of fun and most certainly be clear of any parties. No one does this very Classic Vawter route.
fatdad wrote:The Chief wrote:The East Ridge is long but loads of fun and most certainly be clear of any parties. No one does this very Classic Vawter route.
Vawter route? It was written up in Roper's green guide. Galen Rowell did it thinking he was the first, until he found gear and Bob Harrington said he had done it earlier and was pretty sure that someone before him had done it. Hard to point to a first first on that one. While the route looks awesome (been on my list for years), from what I've read it's looser and the rock quality not as consistent as elsewhere on the peak.
Also, to get back to the crampon issue, while Deb said she cut steps with a nut tool, is that really any easier than just bringing a pair of light crampons? I admire the resourcefulness, but it seems like way more work in the long run. That's just me though.
BTW, bring a jacket/fleece, whatever. The route is on the cooler side (remember--NORTH Arete). Also, like Chief said, a light rack will suffice but I'd actually cut down on the number of draws and bring more runners. We simulclimbed after the fourth pitch I think (the wide one), and ended up using lots of runners.
by fossana » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:06 pm
by PellucidWombat » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:18 pm
Vitaliy M. wrote:. . . but I prefer to enjoy a climb by not bringing more gear than I really need to. I actually prefer bare minimum.
by Vitaliy M. » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:46 pm
fossana wrote:check out the 5.10 variation if you do the N Arete. Have fun!
E Arete is on the short list for next year. Interested?Or what do people who have climbed it think about how nice it might be in the winter?
by PellucidWombat » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:49 pm
by asmrz » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:51 pm
by PellucidWombat » Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:53 pm