Partners for Spring/Summer 2010 (Blanc, Matterhorn, etc)

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
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McCannster

 
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Partners for Spring/Summer 2010 (Blanc, Matterhorn, etc)

by McCannster » Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:12 am

I know it's pretty early, but I will be in Switzerland from mid May until mid July 2010. Looking to climb some high Alpine peaks during this time. Matterhorn, Dom, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa massif, Jungfrau group are all possibilities. Just wondering if anybody is also going to be around that time, and would be interested in joining up for any of these climbs. Again, I know it's really early, but I'm just giving a heads up! Let me know if you're interested!

Und ich spreche Deutsch.
Last edited by McCannster on Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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nattfodd

 
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by nattfodd » Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:56 am

I would be interested in Matterhorn next summer. I sent you a PM.

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McCannster

 
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by McCannster » Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:22 pm

bump

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Bicho

 
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Monte Rosa

by Bicho » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:29 pm

We´ll climb Monte Rosa and around next summer. Enjoy us.

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lowlands

 
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by lowlands » Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:39 pm

PM sent

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McCannster

 
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by McCannster » Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:41 pm

bumper.

I also have what could be a stupid question. Is the Gouter Hut closed in early June? I ask this because on the SP Gouter Hut Page, it says "The hut is guarded from mid-June to the end of September". Does that mean a hut master just sin't there between September and mid-June, or does it mean the hut is locked and closed?? I'm going to try Mont Blanc in the first week fo June. I'm still deciding between the Gouter route or the traverse from Aiguille du Midi.

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hamik

 
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by hamik » Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:45 pm

Do the traverse and descend the Gouter! This is a pleasant dayhike, 8-16 hrs depending on acclimatization.

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nattfodd

 
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by nattfodd » Mon Mar 29, 2010 5:52 pm

McCannster wrote:bumper.

I also have what could be a stupid question. Is the Gouter Hut closed in early June? I ask this because on the SP Gouter Hut Page, it says "The hut is guarded from mid-June to the end of September". Does that mean a hut master just sin't there between September and mid-June, or does it mean the hut is locked and closed?? I'm going to try Mont Blanc in the first week fo June. I'm still deciding between the Gouter route or the traverse from Aiguille du Midi.


Do the traverse. It is so much more pleasant than the Gouter, in every possible aspect (view, challenge, accommodation, fun, crowds...).

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McCannster

 
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by McCannster » Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:07 pm

Alrighty then, the traverse it is. Sounds great. I typically climb faster than whatever time predictions there are, so if the time required is 8-16 hrs (quite a large gap!), I'm confident I can make it in about 10-12 hours, hopefully. Is there a place to bivy at Aiguille du Midi? Or do people usually bivy at the refuge that's just down the saddle from the Midi?

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barrys

 
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by barrys » Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:59 am

Cosmiques refuge will be open if you're looking for a refuge, it's open much of the year unlike the Gouter refuge. There is also the 'abri simond' if you're just looking for a free roof over your head. It is technically forbidden to bivi at the cable car station but people do it. Abri Simond/Cosmiques refuge would be a better starting point for an ascent than the aiguille du midi station anyhow. To save on weight and bag space I'd just pay the money and stay in the refuge and get fed too.

Also, if you're planning on descending by the gouter be advised - expect a killer of a descent, having just climbed up to 4807, you'll then have to descend 3800 vertical metres on foot to get back! The TMB from Nid d'Aigle to Saint Gervais opens mid june and the cable cars in Les Houches later still. The only mechanical way down is to descend the way you climbed, back to Aiguille du Midi. There are other descent options such as the valee blanche and take the montenvers train or Mulets route and go to the mid station of DuMidi but they can provide big route finding problems and dangers at that time of year. Early June I'd go back the same way I got there.

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McCannster

 
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by McCannster » Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:54 am

barrys wrote:Cosmiques refuge will be open if you're looking for a refuge, it's open much of the year unlike the Gouter refuge. There is also the 'abri simond' if you're just looking for a free roof over your head. It is technically forbidden to bivi at the cable car station but people do it. Abri Simond/Cosmiques refuge would be a better starting point for an ascent than the aiguille du midi station anyhow. To save on weight and bag space I'd just pay the money and stay in the refuge and get fed too.

Also, if you're planning on descending by the gouter be advised - expect a killer of a descent, having just climbed up to 4807, you'll then have to descend 3800 vertical metres on foot to get back! The TMB from Nid d'Aigle to Saint Gervais opens mid june and the cable cars in Les Houches later still. The only mechanical way down is to descend the way you climbed, back to Aiguille du Midi. There are other descent options such as the valee blanche and take the montenvers train or Mulets route and go to the mid station of DuMidi but they can provide big route finding problems and dangers at that time of year. Early June I'd go back the same way I got there.


Good points. I guess I'll have to wait until a closer to see what conditions are like, but I have definitely decided on the Traverse, at least for the ascent.

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McCannster

 
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by McCannster » Sun May 02, 2010 8:43 pm

bump

Anybody want to get on some rock in Switzerland or the Dolomites anytime between May 17-28, then again from June 8-16???

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by tdoughty » Thu May 13, 2010 12:26 am

Hi all! Recent financial troubles have sidelined my two partners. Will be in the Alps area the last week of July and first week of August 2010. Weather dependent we planed on Materhorn and Mt Blanc. Back up plan is via farattas in the dolomites, or????

Let me know if your party has room for one more or if you'ld like to join me.

Also, if I'm stuck solo, any recomended similar alps routes?

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goodwilson

 
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replied

by goodwilson » Thu May 20, 2010 9:59 pm

PM ed, please reply

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