by jthomas » Mon Mar 01, 2010 5:22 pm
by DanielWade » Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:55 am
by WML » Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:04 pm
by jthomas » Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:43 pm
DanielWade wrote:I love that system, it's very close to what I use:
Cap 1 T or L/S
R2 (would be like your Nanopuff)
TNF Valkyrie (similar to the Gamma)
On the bottom I do something similar:
Cap 1 Pant (or nothing)
R1 Pant (for standing around days - ice climbing)
Super Guide Pant
For the Sierra summers (very little glacier) I go a little bit lighter:
Cap 1 T
R1 Hoody (I can't leave home without it!)
TNF Triumph Anorak (hardshell)
TNF Redpoint Optimus (primaloft)
R1 Pant (for camp/sleeping)
TNF Elixir Pant (very light softshell)
by welle » Tue Mar 02, 2010 6:24 pm
Roped glacier climbing (Hood/Rainier)
Cap T shirt
put on DAS or belay parka at stops
Mixed climbing in the N. Cascades/Olympics (warmer with some rock):
Cap T shirt
Gamma MX or perhaps Alpine Wind Jacket (very similar to Marmot Driclime)
In both cases, carry a light hardshell in case of heavy rain. I am beginning to wonder if I screwed up getting the Gamma MX, as there seems to be a workaround for either case without it.
Does this sound about right? Would the Gamma MX be unnecessary for Hood/Rainier?
by Autoxfil » Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:03 pm
by dskoon » Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:28 pm
by jthomas » Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:31 pm
Autoxfil wrote:I agree with Welle on all counts.
If you bring more layers, you have more options and can be more comfortable more of the time. But, when going light, it's silly.
My usual system:
Wool 2 zip
Rab Neutrino Endurance
Smartwool light baselayer
R1 tights (optional for warmer weather)
MH Argon Ice pants. I used to use MH Exposure II bibs - way warmer and tougher, but heavy.
When it's colder (consistently below freezing) I wear a Patagonia Ascentionist instead of a Houdini - it's a light nonembrane shell. It breathes very well and provides more wind and rain protection - and much more warmth - than the Houdini.
I add a Cap 3 zip when it gets colder, and when it's really cold (-40 winchill) I swap the R2 for a hoodless Compressor. It's much warmer than the R2 and weighs the same, but doesn't breathe as well.
You'll note the zip tops - they are huge. I'll never buy a crew again. Being able to vent is far more effective than messing with layers.
Also, wool is not only less stinky, but I'm comfortable over a broader range of temps in wool.
by Gattsu » Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:54 pm
by Autoxfil » Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:13 pm
dskoon wrote: Wouldn't wool absorb much sweat, and then take longer to dry out? This baselayer question continues to nag me. Steve House said he would never wear wool.
I bring this example up, as I do sweat a lot, and thinking of climbing in colder temps, etc. the issue of soaking the baselayer becomes a concern, with hypothermia, etc.
by dskoon » Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:30 pm
by welle » Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:39 pm
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