peru, July 2011

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stevemaher

 
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peru, July 2011

by stevemaher » Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:11 pm

In peru on business in august 2011 so im planning going a month early and get some peaks in. I have only Scottish winter experiance and 2000m expericence in iceland.

i am on a tight budget, possibly i only have 2000 dollars to spend

can anyone recomend a guiding company or a itinary i could use or some peaks within my capibilities?

Cheers in advance

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albanberg

 
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by albanberg » Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:33 pm

Last year I did a trip with:

http://www.nuestramontana.com

I'm going again this year with them.

Since you have not been real high, you might want to do a trek for acclimatization first. We did the Santa Cruz trek, which was 4 days. Then we climbed Pisco. This year we start on Yannapacha. You might want to look those up here on SP.

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Buz Groshong

 
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by Buz Groshong » Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:12 pm

I'd recommend Skyline Adventures (http://www.skyline-adventures.com/). I've done a number of trips with them and they do a fantastic job. Prices are reasonable; they get you acclimatized; and they teach you what you need to know.

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shottolo

 
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by shottolo » Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:03 pm

i think you can try do something in the Ishinca valley
like Urus este (normal route PD... not sure about this but is simple) and Ishinca (normal route F)
there is the Ishinca hut and you can start do this peaks from there (you can do Ishinca in one day from hut and Urus este in one day too)
Pisco is really beautiful and easy (1 day for the hut and 1 more for the peak)

another good idea could be the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking (maybe i will go in 2011 for this acclimatation trek, before Artesonraju)

you can see the pictures about Ishinca Valley here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shottolo/s ... 4563217522
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shottolo/s ... 7522/show/

my other trip in Perù (but nothing about Ishinca valley):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shottolo/s ... 460566129/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/shottolo/s ... 6129/show/


sorry for my english :P

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stevemaher

 
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by stevemaher » Sat Jul 31, 2010 4:54 pm

Ok great some cool ideas here, and thanks for your help

About pisco, 2 days to summit, would I need more time before to aclimatise properly? I was thinking of climbing Pisco first then Huascaran. After reading up on these two summits I think I would have no problem techniclly but Im worried about altitude.

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shottolo

 
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by shottolo » Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:52 am

this was out program (we changed something for bad weather but not very much... just a relax day after urus and before ishinca)

day 1 Milano - Atlanta - Lima
day 2 Lima - Marcarà
day 3 Marcarà
day 4 Marcarà
day 5 Marcarà - gita acclimatamento
day 6 Marcarà - Còllon - rifugio Ishinca
day 7 Ishinca Hut
day 8 Ishinca Hut - laguna Pallashcocha - Ishinca Hut
day 9 Ishinca Hut - vetta Urus - Ishinca Hut
day 10 Ishinca Hut - bivacco Longoni
day 11 bivacco Longoni - vetta Ishinca - Ishinca Hut
day 12 Ishinca Hut - Tocllaraju campo 1
day 13 Tocllaraju campo 1 - cima Tocllaraju - Ishinca hut
day 14 Ishinca hut - Còllon - Marcarà
day 15 Marcarà
day 16 Marcarà
day 17 Llanganuco - Perù hut
day 18 Perù hut - vetta Nevado Pisco - Perù hut
day 19 Perù hut - Llanganuco - Marcarà
day 20 Marcarà
day 21 Marcarà - Lima
day 22 Lima - Atlanta - Milano
day 23 Milano - home

we really had no problem with this program
we went in Marcarà to OMG (operazione mato grosso) guides
you can find a lot of guides in huaraz but we prefered the omg's gruides ;)

sorry for my terrible english :P

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wkriesel

 
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by wkriesel » Thu Aug 19, 2010 4:50 pm

Hi,
I have similar plans for July-August 2011, and a very small budget. My experience includes Mt Blanc, Aconcagua, Rainier etc. Send me a pm if your interested sharing a guide service.

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Luciano136

 
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by Luciano136 » Thu Aug 19, 2010 5:41 pm

I used www.peruvianandes.com. Everything went smoothly. If you never get on altitude much, I would definitely recommend a 4-5 day trek first. We followed a rather aggressive schedule but I went to 3500m the previous weekend. Just being in town a little early will already give you some acclimatization (3090m).

Due to plane difficulties, we only arrived on Friday morning in Huaraz with the night bus. The next day, we already started on our 3 day trek with 5000m as the highpoint on day 2. Between the trek and 4 day Pisco climb, we took 1 rest day.

The distances and elevation gain are pretty modest but it's the altitude that makes it slower going.

I had a lot of my questions answered through this forum, so I'm more than happy to return the favor; just shoot me a message :).

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stevemaher

 
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by stevemaher » Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:50 pm

Great guys. I wont be booking anything untill january.

im pretty interested in Artesonraju. It looks tricky though, can anyone give me an idea what scottish grade the hardest technical parts of this mountain are? Ive heard its a 900m grade 3 snow/ice climb

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Luciano136

 
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by Luciano136 » Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:35 pm

stevemaher wrote:Great guys. I wont be booking anything untill january.

im pretty interested in Artesonraju. It looks tricky though, can anyone give me an idea what scottish grade the hardest technical parts of this mountain are? Ive heard its a 900m grade 3 snow/ice climb


Definitely a beautiful peak! SP has a great page on it. Packed snow climbing 45-55 degrees; should be relatively straightforward.

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sharperblue

 
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Artesonraju

by sharperblue » Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:00 pm

Compared to normal snow years, Artesonraju is in poor-ish (but not awful) conditions this season: low precipitation left the classic face route much, much rockier than normal, though still workable. Depending on your down-climbing comfort level and the number in your party, if next season is similar to this, take a few screws and definitely extra pickets for the descent

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Gido

 
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by Gido » Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:48 pm

Artesonraju SE face was number one on my to do list while I was in Peru last june. Although I didn't see the mountain, it appeared to be definitely out of condition, that's what I was told from reliable sources.

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MJTreinen

 
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Re: peru, July 2011

by MJTreinen » Mon May 09, 2011 4:55 pm

I will be in Peru in July as well, with my girlfriend. We are looking to do some minor peaks like Pisco and Yanapaccha to start and then maybe a 6000m if things are going good and conditions are right. We'd also be interested in sharing guides if you still need a couple of partners. Or, we'd like to hear about your experiences.

Bueno suerte
Matthew


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