Hi I am looking to pick my next mountain and was wondering if anyone could give advice based on the parameters below.

I've summited Hood and Shasta and have done some ice climbing and anchors courses for rock. I've also done some short guided training to help understand snow and glacier conditions etc. I have went with more experienced people and guides [i][i]in the past and now am looking to develop some more personal competence in the next one.

1.) Willing to do guided and travel - even Internatioanlly - though a cheaper budget would certainly be helpful.
2.) Would like something with some mix of steep technical ice/snow and glacier team travel.
3.) 3 days max for the climb
4.) 14K - 20K altitude is preferred.

Thank you so much!

If you want to get above 14K, you're going to have to do some international travel (or Alaska) and your trip is likely going to be longer than 3 days. Check out Ecuador. It's fairly cheap once you get there, though the flights can be pricey. Guides are required on the higher glaciated peaks, but there are some great mountains for a first high altitude experience like Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Cayambe, & Iliniza that can all be dayhiked if you are fit and acclimatized. Mexico (Orizaba, Iztaccihuatl, & others) is also an option though if you're looking for glaciers, there isn't much left there.

cab wrote:If you want to get above 14K, you're going to have to do some international travel (or Alaska) and your trip is likely going to be longer than 3 days. Check out Ecuador. It's fairly cheap once you get there, though the flights can be pricey. Guides are required on the higher glaciated peaks, but there are some great mountains for a first high altitude experience like Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Cayambe, & Iliniza that can all be dayhiked if you are fit and acclimatized. Mexico (Orizaba, Iztaccihuatl, & others) is also an option though if you're looking for glaciers, there isn't much left there.

Also don't discount staying the USA and doing Rainier, Glacier, and Baker in Washington. Plenty of year-round snow/ice on those so its a low budget way to get experience on those without traveling internationally.

But if you want to go internationally I'll second the mentions above for Ecuador and Mexico. Specific for Mexico, the climbing season on the volcanos is November through March (tropical weather during the spring/summer/early fall), and Mexico's #2 peak Popo is currently active and climbing it is prohibited AFAIK. Ecuador's weather is odd since its on the equator. I was there in a January and it was nice, others have gone in July and it was similar. Ecuador is usually a two-week trip to bag a number of the volcanos, Mexico is 9 - 14 days.

Wasn't Popo closed for a while now? I'm pretty sure it's been like years

JS99 wrote:Hi I am looking to pick my next mountain and was wondering if anyone could give advice based on the parameters below.

I've summited Hood and Shasta and have done some ice climbing and anchors courses for rock. I've also done some short guided training to help understand snow and glacier conditions etc. I have went with more experienced people and guides [i][i]in the past and now am looking to develop some more personal competence in the next one.

1.) Willing to do guided and travel - even Internatioanlly - though a cheaper budget would certainly be helpful.
2.) Would like something with some mix of steep technical ice/snow and glacier team travel.
3.) 3 days max for the climb
4.) 14K - 20K altitude is preferred.

Thank you so much!

1. Mont Blanc, France/Italy: The tallest mountain in the Alps, Mont Blanc offers a combination of steep snow, ice climbing, and glaciated terrain. It can be ascended autonomously or with guidance. The ascent normally takes two to three days and calls for some technical expertise in addition to high physical fitness.

2. Orizaba, Mexico: Pico de Orizaba is Mexico's tallest peak and a fantastic place to go high-altitude mountain climbing. It involves some steep snow and ice climbs and is situated in glacial terrain. The climb is located in Mexico and is a more affordable choice for traveling abroad. It can often be finished in two to three days.