Hello all!
This is my first post here. I am a relatively novice mountaineer (my relatively short climbing resume includes Mt. Shasta (Hotlum-Bolun Route), Pyramid Peak, Rubicon Peak & most of the Becker, Talking Mountain, Ralston Peak traverse (all in winter), and I have had some lessons in crampon and ice axe usage along with avalanche safety courses). I'm going to Ecuador this October with a buddy of mine who is a pretty skilled rock climber, but about as experienced as me in alpine mountaineering, and we plan on attempting Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. We have about a 10 day window from the time we arrive in Quito to acclimatize and summit both peaks and we have hired a guide but I still have some questions...
- I know we aren't picking the ideal climbing season for either peak, but from what I've read both are doable year round. Is this correct? Has anyone here attempted the climbs in October and do you have any advice on possible weather/temps/gear?
- Have any of you that have attempted either Chimborazo or Cotopaxi used a high camp? While I am confident in my ability to complete a 14 hour grueling slog, I would rather divide it into 2 days with a rest if possible. Does this make sense for either mountain?
- Are we giving ourselves enough time to acclimatize? Is there anything we can do before we travel to Quito to better prepare for the altitude?
- Besides Diamox are there any other medications/prescriptions that we should bring?
- Are there any technical skills we should work on and be proficient at before we go?
Any other suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!