French Direct on Alpamayo

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French Direct on Alpamayo

by Hadley » Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:23 pm

Greetings from Cape Town !

I'm off to C-Blanca next year for the first time and am looking for an RD on the French Direct Route on Alpamayo.

Lookin forward to some details and advice.


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by ElCapitanKoolAid » Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:31 pm

Read my posting on Cordillera Blanca. They want to create new restrictions! Write to the guys in charge.

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Damien Gildea

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by Damien Gildea » Sat Sep 16, 2006 2:00 am

If you get CLIMB magazine (UK) in SAf then look back a few issues and in the INFO section there was a good topo/photo of the face, with routes marked.

People have been doing the FD instead of the Ferrari due to the serac problem at the top, although apparently there have still been some up the Ferrari.


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by KevinCraig » Mon Sep 18, 2006 5:24 am

I posted a pic here with the French Direct drawn on it from our climb this summer. If you have a high-speed connection, I can e-mail you more detailed photos showing the route. It was in excellent condition when we did it. Basically cross the bergschrund at the obvious spot and continue up the gully with continuous ice. Getting up the final half pitch to the summit ridge and traversing the summit ridge to rappel the Ferrari was "interesting." [/url]

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Pedro Hauck

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When do you pretend to climb?

by Pedro Hauck » Sat Nov 11, 2006 12:13 pm

I´m planning to climb this route in July 2007.

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