Hi,

we are two norwegians who are thinking of doing the Eiger North face via the 1938-route.

Basically all we need is beta on the approach and descent, so if anyone has some good info we would be grateful...

In case we need to buy a guidebook; what book should we buy?

http://www.bergsteigen.at/de/bericht.aspx?ID=588

The video of Eiger Nordwand LIVE (only VHS):
http://www.amazon.de/Eiger-Nordwand-Live/dp/B00004RY8J

The english version of the best book of the North Face:
Daniel Anker "The vertical arena"
http://www.amazon.de/Eiger-Vertical-Arena-Daniel-Anker/dp/0898866790/ref=sr_1_2/028-6410294-0707740?ie=UTF8&s=books-intl-de&qid=1173552359&sr=8-2

or ther german version, better available
http://www.amazon.de/Eiger-vertikale-Arena-Daniel-Anker/dp/3905111519/ref=sr_1_8/028-6410294-0707740?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1173552649&sr=8-8



http://www.hkvysehrad.cz/obrazky/eiger_nordwand.jpg

Steinar,

Since it has been unusually warm this year and many previously, the ice fields and permafrost on the Eiger have melted out quite a bit. You might want to contact a guide service from the area for current conditions of the route. Of course you could ask the guy that climbed it in under four hours back in February.

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/eigerunder4/

Hey, here's his phone number and e-mail.

Telefon +41 (0)79 291 31 25
E-mail info@uelisteck.ch

As for the approach to the Eiger's base that works the best, take the train to Grindelwald from Interlaken and continue on up to Kleine Sheidegg. You just walk right from the train stop out to the hiking trail that takes you back down to Grindelwald. You can camp in the cow pasture anywhere, but of course get back far enough from the wall to avoid rock fall. ha. You could stay at the hotel as well or down in town. I stayed at the hotel Stalden on the way into town and liked it a lot. Of course we were just touristing around. There are some multi-pitch sport routes right up the hill from the hotel Stalden, about five pitches.