solo climbs in the Pyrenees

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mh

 
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solo climbs in the Pyrenees

by mh » Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:48 pm

I am going to Toulouse to have a meeting soon and I am wondering if there are don't-miss climbs in the Pyrenees that are suitable for a solo climber. I have never been to the region before and plan to spend 2-3 days.

Ideally the climb will take more than one day, with a hut on the way up, or there are several day-trips from the same starting point. I hope there is a summit that is challenging and offers a good view.

I have done TD alpine routes but I want to avoid any thing that usually needs a rope this time because I will have no partner. I hope the most technical gear needed is a normal mountaineering ice axe, or no equipment is needed -- just scrambling. Climbing on rocky ridges is preferred than on snow.

thanks in advance.

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Luiso

 
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by Luiso » Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:38 am

Pyrenees is full of this kind of routes. From Toulouse, you have to go to the western part of the range and I think that Vallée d'Ossau can be a good option. You have there the peak of Midi d'Ossau, with a normal route (PD) posted in SP and another route that traverses the mountain (AD-).
In the same valley, Balaitous exceed 3,000 ms and is a main peak in the whole mountain range. From France, there are several routes between F (Col Noir - Diagonale, posted in SP) and AD (Chimney of Néous).
There are huts in all cases: Pombie for Midi d'Ossau and Larribet or Packe (free) for Balaitous. Usualy, served huts in France close late in september but a free part remains open.

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by mh » Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:52 am

Luiso wrote: the peak of Midi d'Ossau, with a normal route (PD).


Thank you Luiso.
Is that the one with a long history? Is it mostly 4th class scrambling? Is there severely exposed loose section and section that needs abseiling?

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eza

 
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by eza » Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:23 am

mh wrote:
Luiso wrote: the peak of Midi d'Ossau, with a normal route (PD).


Thank you Luiso.
Is that the one with a long history? Is it mostly 4th class scrambling? Is there severely exposed loose section and section that needs abseiling?


I only know Midi d'Ossau by references by good friends, never have been lucky enough to climb it myself. But as far as I know it's not really difficult if you have grade III UIAA climbing experience. Nevertheless, take care and be ready to turn back if the rock conditions are not good. Expect rather long (20 to 30 meters high) climbing sections and (if possible) avoid weekend days, for the normal route can be quite crowded and falling stones become a danger. Abseiling could be advisable for the way down.

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by mh » Fri Sep 19, 2008 2:11 pm

I just find this interesting trip report posted on SP (and ole Dingus' reply) -- if someone could wander up the peak there is nothing to worry about, except for the weather and other usual caution in the mountains.

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by Luiso » Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:30 pm

mh wrote:
Luiso wrote: the peak of Midi d'Ossau, with a normal route (PD).


Thank you Luiso.
Is that the one with a long history? Is it mostly 4th class scrambling? Is there severely exposed loose section and section that needs abseiling?


First, these route is a classical one; it first climbing was late in the XVIII century and, yes, it has a long history. All difficulty is concentrated in two chimneys of 20 and 25 ms and UIAA II and II+ degree (YDS 5.3). There is a called third chimney that is really a stony slope of YDS class 3. In the following links, you can see some photos:

- Route sketch.
- First chimney.
- Second chimney.
- Third "chimney".

Remainder is walking with some little scrambling. Finally you have, in this other link, a route description; it's in spanish but includes a lot of photos and you can see almost the whole route.

About the need of abseiling, many people descend without rope and others use it... in this point, I agree eza: if you are used to climb difficulties higher than UIAA III, you can do this route without problem, on dry rock. Another matter is if there is ice or simply rock is wet.

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by mh » Sat Sep 20, 2008 3:34 pm

Thanks Luiso. This is great.


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