Learning Ice?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the U.S. Rocky Mountains. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Colorado Climbing Partners section.
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mconnell

 
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by mconnell » Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:47 pm

iceisnice wrote:Oh, one more thing about the gear.....don't believe the stuff about finding "the right tool for you". Just buy anything and learn how to use it. Yeah, tools are different and require different style of swings....but seriously, you can climb on anything. Most of the new tools are all hype. Its about the climber....noth the gear.


I second that. My tools are crap according to gear whores, but the serve me just fine. True that I prefer my partner's aztar's, but not enough so that I would spend the money on a new pair. (At least not yet!)

BTW, there is a limit to that. Some of the really cheap tools suck pretty bad. I have a single Omega Pacific Bulldog that I bought as a 3rd tool. It absolutely sucks for climbing steep ice (too short, grip made of rubber tape, balance is screwed, etc.).

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iceisnice

 
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by iceisnice » Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:07 pm

mconnell wrote:
iceisnice wrote:Oh, one more thing about the gear.....don't believe the stuff about finding "the right tool for you". Just buy anything and learn how to use it. Yeah, tools are different and require different style of swings....but seriously, you can climb on anything. Most of the new tools are all hype. Its about the climber....noth the gear.


I second that. My tools are crap according to gear whores, but the serve me just fine. True that I prefer my partner's aztar's, but not enough so that I would spend the money on a new pair. (At least not yet!)

BTW, there is a limit to that. Some of the really cheap tools suck pretty bad. I have a single Omega Pacific Bulldog that I bought as a 3rd tool. It absolutely sucks for climbing steep ice (too short, grip made of rubber tape, balance is screwed, etc.).


Yeah, that's cuz Omega just sucks in general tho. "Cheap tools" doesn't mean poor quality......in my own opinion. I'm sure you know what I'm mean....

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:25 am

You didn't state which ice climbing book you read but I would suggest Ice World by Jeff Lowe if that wasn't the one. A great teaching tool for anyone just starting out in ice climbing that will give you a leg up in terms of technique.

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iceisnice

 
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by iceisnice » Sat Nov 14, 2009 3:34 pm

dug wrote:THe best tool is the one having the most fun, or something like that.


ha!

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funkyicemonkey

 
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by funkyicemonkey » Sun Nov 15, 2009 6:12 am

I agree with almost everything thats been said... However, stay away from straight shafted axes they WILL be painful. Things like gloves can be those yellow work gloves with the grippy stuff on it, and for years I climbed in wool Dachstein mits. Cosy boots are a must, and you'd be surprised what you can stick a good rigid crampon to. For years I had monos stuck to very cheap Hi-Tech boots that were more like sneakers with a full clippable sole. Did some very hard chalk on the South coast of Britain in those - yes you can climb chalk with axes and mono's, just take my advice and don't. Not yet at least. Just enjoy and wear a good helmet and I wear safety glasses from a hardware store. Good Luck!

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Buckaroo

 
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by Buckaroo » Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:21 pm

"Ice and Mixed Climbing" by Will Gadd is good.

There's 2 types of ice in this context, waterfall ice and alpine ice. Thinking you're talking more about waterfall ice.

Used tools are good if you do a little research. Typically last years model. Lots of people have bought tools and found out they don't like ice climbing or aren't able to get out enough.

There's actually not that much waterfall ice in Western WA, it doesn't get cold enough. Lilloet is the closest reliable waterfall ice to here, about a 5 hr drive.

You can also build a training wall out of wood with the grain oriented vertically. I've seen people climb telephone poles also.

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