by Diego Sahagún » Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:56 am
by AndyJB444 » Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:21 pm
Bart wrote:tmaxwell wrote:The fact your asking about it should answer your question. If there is a doubt in your mind don't do it
I'd second that! Glacier travel in a 2 person team with 0 experience is pretty unacceptable from a safety standpoint. You may know how to prusik up a rope but that's of little use if you don't know how to hold a fall, make an anchor (dig in your axe) and attach the rope to the anchor. Furthermore, what would you do if your partner is somehow unable to prusik out of the crevasse? Even if you've held the fall, set up a perfect anchor and attached the rope to it, if your partner is hurt or otherwise unable to perform, then what? There are very good pulley systems you can use (ie with the aforementioned tibloc or just standard prusiks), but again these take practice. Finally, knowing how to prusik isn't enough because the rope will cut into the snow-lip of the crevasse, often providing an insurpassable obstacle for normal prusik technique. There's a nifty way around this, but its not something you want to have to figure out while hanging in a crevasse!
It's not my intention to demotivate you, but 2 person glacier travel is serious business and I wouldn't want you to get into any nasty situations. On the other hand, it's a skill you couuld probably learn in a day, so maybe hiring a guide or having a more experience friend show you would be a great start.
Good luck and have fun,
Bart
by Diego Sahagún » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:53 pm
by Diego Sahagún » Sun Apr 18, 2010 12:15 am
by JakobFisker » Sun Apr 18, 2010 5:09 pm
by Diego Sahagún » Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:56 am
by JakobFisker » Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:16 pm
by theflyingmountaineer » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:52 pm
Deleted User wrote:Diego Sahagún wrote:Hopefully I've never fell into a crevasse. Nadie has never trode a glacier
Wow... just amazing.
Have you even read a book about glacier travel? Perhaps you should pick it up again and read what it says just inside the front cover. (And repeated dozens of times on the inside)
It's your job to save your own ass so good luck with crevasse rescue and ZERO skills! I wish I could be there to watch as you try to set up a z while your wife dangles over a massive void and you're 5 feet from the lip.
Have fun.
by Diego Sahagún » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:03 pm
by Ejnar Fjerdingstad » Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:16 pm
Diego Sahagún wrote:Since my left shoulder still hurts and I won't be able to ascend something long or carrying a heavy backpack (only things for a not long day).
Could anyone recommend us some quick and easy ascents in Mont Blanc Massif, Valais or southern Oberland Bernese
We've thought on Breithorn, Allalinhorn on the normal route from Allalinpass (though I've done it), the classic walk on Mer de Glace, probably walking up to Gare des Glaciers, Aiguilles Rouges, Hornli Hut...
Does anyone know if it's possible to leave the car near Tunnel du Mont Blanc entrance and reach Refuge des Cosmiques from Gare des Glaciers taking a cableway
by mjrgardens » Wed Jul 14, 2010 6:55 pm
by Diego Sahagún » Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:01 am
mjrgardens wrote:buy tie in-bite over hand.
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