cp0915 wrote:I'd like to thank everyone involved in this thread for giving me something to do this slow morning at work. This thread rocks!!!
There's nothing like a thread about a deceased climber abandoned on the Big E to bring everyone together.
by John Duffield » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:48 pm
cp0915 wrote:I'd like to thank everyone involved in this thread for giving me something to do this slow morning at work. This thread rocks!!!
by The Chief » Wed Jun 09, 2010 4:24 pm
Alpynisto wrote:Bruno_Tibet wrote:The big advantage of Internet forum is that you can post without the proper knowledge and experience!
Well at least there's one thing Chief is good at.
Bruno_Tibet wrote:The big advantage of Internet forum is that you can post without the proper knowledge and experience without any risk of dying!
by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 4:44 pm
The Chief wrote:Aircraft Crash & Salvage Fire Fighter... and that aint no 02 in our BA's nor did we ever leave anyone behind either.
by Brad Marshall » Wed Jun 09, 2010 4:55 pm
The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.
by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:00 pm
Brad Marshall wrote:The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.
Have a safe and enjoyable day climbing Rick. Don't forget to PM me so we can iron out our Everest expedition plans.
by Brad Marshall » Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:18 pm
Bruno_Tibet wrote:Brad Marshall wrote:The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.
Have a safe and enjoyable day climbing Rick. Don't forget to PM me so we can iron out our Everest expedition plans.
May I join you? In order to be admitted in the team, I am ready to pay the big cheque to our Chief expedition leader!
by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:34 pm
Brad Marshall wrote:
P.S. They grey bottles in the photo are The Chief's and the yellow ones are for the rest of the team.
by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:47 pm
Brad Marshall wrote:Bruno_Tibet wrote:Brad Marshall wrote:The Chief wrote:See ya.... ya'll be safe out there now.
Have a safe and enjoyable day climbing Rick. Don't forget to PM me so we can iron out our Everest expedition plans.
May I join you? In order to be admitted in the team, I am ready to pay the big cheque to our Chief expedition leader!
Sure Bruno but since some supplies have long delivery times can you tell me how many oxygen bottles you'll need. The Chief's getting a few extras for the group so keep that in mind. Also, we'll be getting the new TopOut masks.
P.S. They grey bottles in the photo are The Chief's and the yellow ones are for the rest of the team.
by kevin trieu » Wed Jun 09, 2010 8:30 pm
The Chief wrote:I am attacking the entire Big Mountain Expedition $$ Machine as a whole.
...
Don't do Big Mountains and the boss knows it. Just local stuff where the clients actually have to participate in the entire journey, all of it. The loads are equally distributed and just as heavy as mine etc and they have to actually climb when on technical stuff.
Besides, the Boss does all the Big Stuff and in most cases, with one maybe two clients max.
The Chief wrote:kevin trieu wrote:You guide in the Sierra, so you calling the Sierra small mountains? Dude! Dude!! That's a slap in the face, punch in the gut and kick in the balls all at once.
Hey, according to some of these Big Mountain Dudes here on SP, Damien, they are just miniscule tits on the land and not worth any ones effort and are easy ass hills to hike up.
by The Chief » Wed Jun 09, 2010 8:57 pm
kevin trieu wrote:So guiding in the bigger ranges is NOT acceptable but guiding in smaller ranges like the Sierra (where you guide) is ok?
Have you attacked your boss when he's guiding on the bigger ranges and/or Everest? So taking one or two clients is ok on bigger ranges?
Where do you stand on this issue exactly? I'm very confused.
by kevin trieu » Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:31 pm
The Chief wrote:kevin trieu wrote:So guiding in the bigger ranges is NOT acceptable but guiding in smaller ranges like the Sierra (where you guide) is ok?
Have you attacked your boss when he's guiding on the bigger ranges and/or Everest? So taking one or two clients is ok on bigger ranges?
Where do you stand on this issue exactly? I'm very confused.
I posted the answers to your questions above but I will reiterate Kevin.
- In the Sierra, my clients share all the loads equally on the carry up. They take in all their gear, no one carries it for em.
- The group stays together and we work together as a TEAM, throughout the trip. No one gets separated and left behind on their own, NEVER. They either make it as a Team or we turn around as a group if there isn't a second guide to stay with or assist the straggler to descend if necessary. Never is a client ever left alone, period.
- When my Boss goes to the Big Mtns throughout the world, with a client/s, he remains with them the entire journey, 24/7, from start to finish. NEVER does he leave them alone, ever. He does not farm out any responsibility to any Sherpa or Porter. He will only do 2 to 1 ratio and if there are 3 or 4 max, he brings another guide along whose sole purpose/responsibility is to stay and bring up the rear with any potential straggler and to assist if there is any needs or rescue required. NEVER is/are any clients left alone on any trip.
Each service has their protocols. The one I work with has some of the most stringent ones out there. Client Safety is the #1 concern and anything that violates that rule is not nor ever tolerated. The Client's Safety is the only thing that we guarantee. All else is comes after.
As far as the Big Mtn Express goes, my Boss knows how I feel about it and respects my opinion. That is why I hired on and remain with him. I signed up to work with him on the count that I remain locally here in the Eastern Sierra and get as many of the Technical Rock & Ice gigs as possible. Sometimes I go on as a Second Guide when the group size requires it, as was the case with Jack last year. And that is pretty much what I do.
Questions?
by John Duffield » Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:31 pm
Vitaliy M wrote:24/7 with your client and never leaving them..sounds like you guys do a lot more ass whiping than those other guys on big mountains...
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