Team Forced to Leave Blinded Climber on Everest descent

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Bruno

 
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by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 6:19 am

The Chief wrote:
Bruno_Tibet wrote:I'm not considering going there, Chief, I am living "there" (your "there" means "here" for me).


Good for you.

Now, please answer the question that was proposed on that post:

When was the last time on any of your Big Mtn adventures, did you actually haul, yourselves, every bit of your gear all the way in, est your own camps hauling all your gear up, sumitting, then hauling every item of gear, human waste and trash, all the way back out...when?

Dear Chef,

Once upon a time, I climbed an unknown 6'200m high mountain, solo, carrying all my gear, after a 6'500km long approach by bicycle.

I however don't consider this climb as unsupported, because:

1) I did not dig myself the iron ore for the steel to be used in my bicycle. Even worst, I did not build the bicycle myself.

2) Idem for all my equipment, which I purchased (no, I did not climb naked).

3) At a border crossing, I was forced by the soldiers guarding the no-man's-land to put my bicycle on a minibus, and was therefore not allowed to ride with my own power the 300m long no-man's-land.

4) During the three-month long approach to the mountain, it happened to me to sleep in guesthouses, especially in towns, instead of installing my bivouac below a bridge.

5) I did not grow myself the food I ate during the trip. Neither did I hunt for meat. Worst, I always resupplied at local shops. And the fuel for my stove was purchased at petrol stations, not using biogas produced with my own faeces.

6) Last but not least, I was carrying an altimeter and GPS produced by commercial companies.

Shame on me for all these compromises! But at least, I don't claim to have climbed it unsupported… and I never claimed this was a big mountain… :D

What matters to me, is that my climbing/travelling style was in line with my personal climbing and environmental ethics, and that I tried to keep my impact as low as possible. And I enjoyed it, a lot!

Happy climbing,
Bruno

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Wed Jun 09, 2010 7:04 am

I am glad to hear that Mike survived...trust me.

This thread has definitely been interesting to say the least. Learned lots about the persona and the make up of many of the High Alt Climber.

Pete Athans was absolutely correct when he made that comment while being interviewed by NOVA over 13 years. If I recall correctly, Anatoli Boukreev felt the same in regards to the growing amounts of paying novices and his concern for their well being. It's definitely reassuring that some, a very few mind you, but at least some, feel/felt as I do regarding this issue.

That is all that matters to me really.

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ZethKinnett

 
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by ZethKinnett » Wed Jun 09, 2010 7:24 am

The Chief wrote:
ZethKinnett wrote:If tragedy ever strikes me in the mountains, I've made my best friends promise to put something on Summitpost so that The Chief can make sure that they know where I went wrong, where I was at fault, and what he thinks should have been done about it. I couldn't live with myself thinking that if anything terrible were to happen to me, that The Chief wouldn't be able to get his two cents in. What's more, I made my family promise to read what The Chief has to say about me (a stranger to him) and my carelessness/recklessness/irresponsibility/unpreparedness/ignorance/bad luck (oh wait, there's no such thing as bad luck). The Chief, my life will have all been in vain if you, the holiest of guides in the whole Sierra do n ot pass judgment on me and my outdoorsiness. Just please leave my pet duck out of it.


Here is the only judgment I am passing on your careless dumbass...Very weak trolling Toxo.


I'm not a troll. If you're entitled to give climbers a hard time, aren't I entitled to give you a hard time about giving them a hard time? Or are you above that? I'm sorry the humor of what I wrote was lost on you.

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simonov

 
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by simonov » Wed Jun 09, 2010 2:31 pm

The Chief wrote:Hey, according to some of these Big Mountain Dudes here on SP, Damien, they are just miniscule tits on the land and not worth any ones effort and are easy ass hills to hike up.


Mmmm, tits.

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Wed Jun 09, 2010 2:52 pm

redneck wrote:
The Chief wrote:Hey, according to some of these Big Mountain Dudes here on SP, Damien, they are just miniscule tits on the land and not worth any ones effort and are easy ass hills to hike up.


Mmmm, tits.


Exactly! Them tits got some great stuff to play on and in most cases, I gottem all to myself. That's why I am staying right here...

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Bruno

 
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by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:06 pm

The Chief wrote:[...]all you altitude ladder climbers [...]

Why do you hate firefighters?

Image

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Bruno

 
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by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:06 pm

The Chief wrote:[...]all you [...] 02 inhalers.

Why do you hate scuba divers?

Image

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Bruno

 
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by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:20 pm

The Chief wrote:[...] all you altitude ladder climbers & 02 inhalers.


The pioneers' expeditions' era (1936): climbers training for Everest
Image

The commercial expeditions' era (2000): climbers training for Everest
Image

The new generation (2010): Jordan Romero training for Everest
Image

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:24 pm

Hey Bruno...

I am a retired Navy A/C C&S FF and divers DO NOT intake straight 02 like you alt junkies do.

But you should already know that....

GARY:

No equivocation... Two different articles with two different stories. The one I cited was from the San Francisco Chronicle.

The LA Times article is the most accurate and thanks for posting it.

Clyde went back and retrieved Dulley's body. Did not leave him behind which is my point here all along.

Regardless, Clyde's reputation of being the hardest mofo of the Sierra stands. That is why both the Inyo, Mono & Fresno County Sheriff's, for well over 30 years, would immediately call for his assistance when there was any report of a missing person or party within their aspects of the Sierra. They knew that they could count on him to follow through and find the missing party. He had a 100% record of finding all parties that he was tasked in rescuing... fact.
Last edited by The Chief on Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Brad Marshall

 
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by Brad Marshall » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:33 pm

The Chief wrote:Hey Bruno...

I am a retired Navy A/C C&S FF and divers DO NOT intake straight 02 like you alt junkies do.

But you should already know that....


Chief, we all know the reason pure oxygen isn't used for diving but it's not toxic for climbers. You could only compare the two if climbers had a special mixture to breathe when up high like the Trimix divers use now.

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Bruno

 
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by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:36 pm

The Chief wrote:Hey Bruno...

I am a retired Navy A/C C&S FF and divers DO NOT intake straight 02 like you alt junkies do.

But you should already know that....


ACCSFF, hu?

Air/Conditioning Cooling Systems - Fridges & Freezers

Or is there another hidden meaning?

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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:40 pm

I'd like to thank everyone involved in this thread for giving me something to do this slow morning at work. This thread rocks!!!

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:44 pm

Brad Marshall wrote:Chief, we all know the reason pure oxygen isn't used for diving but it's not toxic for climbers. You could only compare the two if climbers had a special mixture to breathe when up high like the Trimix divers use now.


My point Brad... thanks.

Two completely different worlds that have no comparison.

As a matter of fact, you dive without the proper knowledge and experience, you will die. That is a given.

Never mind Bruno
... your 02 is running low. Better change that bottle and unzip that bag. Yur breathing in too much of your toxic intestinal gases.
Last edited by The Chief on Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Bruno

 
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by Bruno » Wed Jun 09, 2010 3:46 pm

The Chief wrote:
Brad Marshall wrote:Chief, we all know the reason pure oxygen isn't used for diving but it's not toxic for climbers. You could only compare the two if climbers had a special mixture to breathe when up high like the Trimix divers use now.


My point Brad... thanks.

Two completely different worlds that have no comparison.

As a matter of fact, you dive without the proper knowledge and experience, you will die. That is a given.

The big advantage of Internet forum is that you can post without the proper knowledge and experience without any risk of dying! :wink:

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