Expected temps/wind on Chimborazo and Cotopaxi

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CBakwin

 
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Expected temps/wind on Chimborazo and Cotopaxi

by CBakwin » Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:10 pm

Can someone tell me the probable temps to be encountered on the high mountains of Equador in early January. I am trying to determine the minimum gear needed, so sleeping bag rating and insulation for the summit day are what I am looking for here. thanks.
PS - responses that contain phrases like "very cold" are not helpful, looking for temp range in degrees, thanks again.

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shottolo

 
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by shottolo » Sat Aug 14, 2010 8:12 pm

i will go in Ecuador from 18 september to 10 october
when i will be there i can ask to local guides something about temperature and wind in january

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Haliku

 
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by Haliku » Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:42 pm

Unless you are camping out you'll be in the huts so the sleeping bag temp won't be much of a concern. I used my 15 deg F down bag and was fine. I climbed in July so I won't comment on the temps in Jan. We geared up as if it was Orizaba or another HA peak and were fine. Layers with a puffy jacket over softshell at breaks worked. Also had hardshell jacket. Used mid weight baselayer and windshirt under jacket. Cheers!

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radson

 
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by radson » Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:32 pm

Just had a mate come back from Chimbo and I quote

"Chimbo has been too dangerous...lots of ice fall and you know, that active thing really kills the mood of climbing when you are sucking down sulfuric ash."

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by sneakyracer » Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:02 pm

Not to discourage you from going to Equador (planning on going sometime myself) but January is prime season for the Mexico Volcanoes. Orizaba has some good 2000 ft of ice/snow climbing at the top and on Iztaccihuatl you can take the Ayoloco glacier route instead of the arista and get into some good snow and ice near the panza. Izta is said to be the most beautifull of all. You can bag Malinche too as an acclimatization hike. The huts are garbage (but usable) I hear but they have been fixing them as of late so who knows. There are also MUCH less objective hazards in these volcanoes from what I gather, mainly rockfall on Orizaba (and obviously slip and falls in all of them) and also Orizaba might have some bullet ice on some days and sections but overall they are fairly warm mountains (freezing levels are ussually about 14-17k ft in that part of the world)

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CBakwin

 
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by CBakwin » Thu Aug 26, 2010 2:25 pm

Thanks guys. Haliku - that is just what I was looking for and also what I expected. I think the 15 degree bag with a light/mid weight down jacket and shell should work over long underwear, many thanks. I can get down to comfort at 15 or 20 degreesF or so with maybe a 15mph wind and still stay pretty light. Colder than that is a bit tougher.
Shottolo- give me a shout when you get back, you can pm me if you think of it. Have fun and stay safe!!
I've climbed in Mexico but could do another trip, just wanted to see Equador, plus I have a connection there by Quito, that would be nice to catch up with. I know January is a bit off the normal season, but it's when I can get there.....
-Chris

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Scott
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by Scott » Sun Aug 29, 2010 3:46 am

I know January is a bit off the normal season, but it's when I can get there.....


December/January is actually the best time of year to go as both mountian ranges are typically in reasonable condition.

Thanks guys. Haliku - that is just what I was looking for and also what I expected. I think the 15 degree bag with a light/mid weight down jacket and shell should work over long underwear, many thanks. I can get down to comfort at 15 or 20 degreesF or so with maybe a 15mph wind and still stay pretty light. Colder than that is a bit tougher.


You should be fine. The temperatures are more or less the same year round. Between the Ilinizas, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and Antisana, we never had any nights colder than 26F (on Antisana). The all time record low for the Cotopaxi refuge is +6.4F, but such temperatures are really unusual.

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Boriss Andean

 
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Chimborazo in January.

by Boriss Andean » Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:19 am

December/January is actually the best time of year to go as both mountian ranges are typically in reasonable condition.


I agree with Scott, December, and January is the best season for climbing in Ecuador. Clear blue skies, windless, the best weather. Of course weather could change from time to time, it's just hard to forecast weather in the Andes as it is in the Alps and Rockies, but I always prefer climbing in December and January. I just enjoy coming back home dry and happy.

I use a 15 F sleeping bag, at all times in and out the refuge. If it gets too cold, I'd just sleep with my inner clothes on.

Conditions in Chimborazo are great at the moment. I heard of people summiting in only 4 hours from the refuge. No rock fall danger, no avalanche danger. Hope it holds like this till the end of the year.

Have fun in Ecuador! :)

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by hurdler » Mon Sep 06, 2010 4:03 pm

I'll be taking a stab at Cotopaxi and possibly Chimborazo in December.

Any input re: the level of technical experience required for Chimborazo? I'm seeing different opinions amongst the various guiding services.

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mtnjim

 
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by mtnjim » Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:59 pm

I did Chimbo, Castillo route, Jan 2 or 3 of this year. If you've ever been on moderately steep, like 50 degree, snow and ice, you'll feel fine. And there were only a couple spots that steep. Mostly hard snow and soft alpine ice. None of the rockfall danger I'd heard about. A few small crevasses but on the right route there was nothing wide enough to fall into.

If you're using a guide. there shouldn't be any problem at all. With a typical Ecuador 1 a.m. start, route finding could otherwise be a problem.

Right now I'm planning on being down there again, mid or early Dec to early Jan with Cayambe highest on my list.

Good Luck,
Jim

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CBakwin

 
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Re: Expected temps/wind on Chimborazo and Cotopaxi

by CBakwin » Sat Oct 02, 2010 2:59 pm

Good stuff here, thanks everyone. Now, from someone who has been there, Crampons? Can I get away with bringing a pair of very non-aggressive Kahtoola Crampons, or would I need a regular pair? Icy, 50% slopes I would bring regular crampons, is this what to expect? I've done Orizaba and would call it "borderline" but probably doable with the Katoolahs, so if the packed snow/ice is no steeper than that, I would bring the Kahtoolahs.....thoughts?

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maxomeara

 
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Re: Expected temps/wind on Chimborazo and Cotopaxi

by maxomeara » Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:46 pm

I would bring regular crampons for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. I got lost on Chimbo so I didn't end up taking a "route" up it but I think the one I found on the way back down when it got light out was the Whymper Route and like mtnjim said around 50 degrees.The kahtoola's look very iffy to me. Also route finding can be tough if you are going to be going alone and if theres no one else on the mountain and/or it's snowing the trail isn't very obvious. Chimborazo is also definitely not Orizaba.


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