Hi,
Am going to be in Morocco in January and was hoping to climb Toubkal. Was trying to arrange this with a UK based tour operator but for various reasons this dosen't look like it will work out. Does anyone know of a reliable local tour operator and if it is possible to hire crampons and ice pick locally? Thanks.

annabrinks wrote:Hi,
Am going to be in Morocco in January and was hoping to climb Toubkal. Was trying to arrange this with a UK based tour operator but for various reasons this dosen't look like it will work out. Does anyone know of a reliable local tour operator and if it is possible to hire crampons and ice pick locally? Thanks.

Hi Anna,

It's probably best that you didn't arrange it through a UK operator, as now you'll save quite a lot of money. Climbing Toubkal is pretty straightforward, or so I found out in November last year. Depending on the conditions, we had very little snow, it might obviously be a bit harder. It's no problem to hire crampons and a pick locally. There's two or three shops that sell/rent climbing equipment, but most others shops will often also carry something.

On the road to the start of the trail in Imlil, you'll encounter this shop. While small, it's the biggest climbing/hiking gear shop in town and it will no doubt cater for all your needs. You could already call or mail them, as their email and number is on the sign in the picture.


If you really want a guide or company, I suggest you to only hire them as of the two huts at 3000m. The road up until there is very clear and easy. Take a warm sleeping bag, because even though there's blankets in the huts, it can get very cold at night since they aren't heated. Also, bring some food up, I found the food up there quite bland. I doubt that there is really a need to book a guide in advance. If you arrive in Imlil, I suggest you to stay in the Hotel Soleil, which is a CAF (Club Alpin Francais) hut. Right in front of it, there is a mountain guide hut. They'll be available to climb with you upon request and will agree on meeting you in the hut at 3000m.


If you want you could also read my trip report about climbing Toubkal last year.

That's fantastic, thanks so much. Not sure if I like the idea of doing it alone though as I'm not experienced at climbing on ice but maybe I'll take your advice and hire a guide for the higher bit or might meet in with others doing trip.

Anna, I didn't realize that you were all alone. I thought that you would be going with at least one other person. Going climbing alone is never smart. Especially not on a 4000m+ mountain, in terrain you don't know, in winter and without previous experiences with winter trekkings. In your case I highly recommend hiring a guide.

Having said that, you can't do much wrong on the first part, up until the hut.

Im thinking of going in march

how much are the local guides and do you have to book the huts in advance?

cheers
steve

chee

We run winter Toubkal ascents, if your looking to join a group with a U.K. Guide or would like us to organise a local guide for you.

Contact us via our website.
http://www.adventurousewe.co.uk
info@adventurousewe.co.uk

I 'climbed' Toubkal in late March 1997. It was very easy, just a steep hike, but hard work in knee-deep fresh snow. The main hut was full, mainly Austrian and Spanish ski-tourers, as it was Easter. I would book the hut in advance if possible, but unless you are really unsure, I would not worry too much about a guide. Neither crampons nor ice-axe were needed in the snowy conditions I had - just warm boots, warm sleeping bag and trekking poles.

In February 2008 I climbed Toubkal as part of an organized tour. I really enjoyed that. We did need crampons, because there wasn´t only snow, there were some icy sections too. I suppose that the circumstances vary and with a bit of fresh snow crampons won´t be neccessary.

You don´t really need a guide for climbing Toubkal. It´s a straighforward hike, the route is easy to find and usually there are plenty of other people on the mountain. That said, a woman alone does attract a bit of attention in Morocco. Then again, I suppose that's the case in many other countries too ...


Winter in Morocco


Rob

I soloed it in winter of 1990 or 1991. I brought my own ice axe, which was crucial as I traversed it and went down a steep couloir on the backside which required an axe to descend. I then hiked down the valley until I found a road, and hitched back to the nearest village. I would not advise this at all for a single woman however. I recall I did quite a bit of the approach at night, and got sketched when I approached a farm with dogs, fearing I would get attacked, so I bivied in afield, and got sick that night and vomited repeatedly. High above in the hills, I could hear Berber girls singing songs back and forth to each other. There was no electricity in these parts then, so I suspected they were creating their own nightly entertainment. Those songs still echo in my head; it was sublime. Avoid the tourist trap cities (Marrakech etc.).