Hi,

I am toying with the idea of heading to Russia next month to have a go at Elbrus via the north route. Does anyone have good info on what the conditions are likely to be like or, specifically what they are likely to be given how the current season is (e.g., unusually wet or dry)? Also, what is the crevasse situation like on that side? I've heard that there are very few and they are quite easy to spot, so that solo climbing is fairly doable.

I am currently communicating with Pilgrim tours regarding logistics, however, I would prefer to climb unguided.

Any information or advice you can provide is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason

I did Elbrus from the North in June I didn’t see any obvious crevasses on route, but there were a few spots with ripples I wondered about. However if one were to get off route in a storm there are certainly areas that can swallow you up - especially below the saddle. I’m not sure how much risk it would be to go un-roped. Almost everyone traveled roped, but I did see a few traveling un-roped.

Here is my trip report. I would expect some of the snow covered areas in my pictures to be melted. I’m curious as to how much.
http://www.summitpost.org/elbrus-north-route/726384