Hey folks!

I want to buy new crampons. I guess I am going to use them for WI 2-4 and alpine climbing in classic routes (ice, snow, rock, mixed). Until now I used Grivel G12s which are great, but a little unsafe in really hard, steep waterfall ice. Now I think about a not too expensive crampon bridging the gap between easy ice climbing and mountaineering. The Sarken looks great. Probably the Dartwin is a little overkill, as I do not climb really hard ice & mixed routes.
Any suggestions?

Thanks a lot!
Flo.

I have a pair of the Sarken and love them. I have only climbed on WI 4+ with them and no mixed yet, but they work great on the WI 4+. I have used them for Mountaineering and they are fine, although I have the lever lock, which means there not good for walking in for long distances(on flat ground at least), not enough bend. I really like the two front points and how long they are too.

I have not tried the dartwin but they also look like a solid pair of crampons. The nice thing about them is your able to modify them more and can now even put on the Eperons Spur. Not that you would climb with them much but at least there's an option for them.

I've used the G12 on WI5 and harder and M7 and will continue to do so. Unsafe? They are actually much more secure than the Dartwin in moderate terrain.

I use the Dartwin generally these days because they are lighter but have no doubt as a crampon for moderate terrain they are limited and actually less safe for a less than expert user. Less down points is the reason.

The only advantage of any of the Petzl crampons compared to your G12s is the weight.

Keep them sharp and they all climb better than most any one wearing them.

Now if you just want to buy new crampons The Sarken comes with full bots. The Dartwins do not. Another distinct advantage where the G12 shines in comparison.

I have climbed plenty of WI4, much of it very hard, brittle ice, in both Sarkens and G12s. I much prefer the G12s in all conditions. In brittle ice the Sarkens displace too much ice and make it more likey to shatter the whole foot right out. In soft ice the horizontal frontpoints of the G12 shear less.

Okay. Sounds like I should spare the money. I only had the impression when climbing in borrowed crampons with frontpoints like the G14, that they penetrate much better in hard ice and give a more secure feeling.
But probably you are right: Old school climbers used to do much harder stuff than I do with one straight shaft axe and 10-point crampons (or none at all! ). If I can get a good deal on used Sarkens or Dartwins I`ll give them a try.
Thanx for the advice!