Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

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Karrar Haidri

 
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Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Karrar Haidri » Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:04 pm

A nine-member strong Polish mountaineering expedition led by famous Polish veteran mountaineer, Krzysztof Wielicki, left for Skardu for their attempt to make the first winter ascent of 8,047 metre high Broad Peak in the Baltoro region.

Krzysztof Wielicki, who is now 62 years old, was the fifth mountaineer to climb all 14 peaks rising above 8,000 metres between 1980 and 1996. The expedition also includes young and strong mountaineers including Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab who created history by making the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I (8,068 metres) on March 8, 2012. From Pakistan side the expedition is being accompanied by famous professional mountaineer and

member Alpine Club of Pakistan Shaheen Baig who hails from Shimshal, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan. Baig has climb of three peaks rising above 8,000 metres including K-2 to his credit and has taken

part in several winter expeditions to Gasherbrum II and other peaks.

Alpine Club of Pakistan President Lieutenant Colonel (r) Manzoor Hussain in a message to the expedition has wished them success and safe return after their arduous adventure. It may be noted that during winter the Karakoram high peaks experience severe cold conditions with strong winds to the range of up to 100 kilometres an hour with temperatures dropping to 70 degrees below freezing. It may be recalled that first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8,035 metre) was made by an international team lead by Mr Simone Moro and that of Gasherbrum I (8,068 metres) was made in March 2012 by a Polish Expedition led by Artur Hajzer.

In addition to the Polish expedition to Braod Peak, five other foreign expeditions shall be attempting to make first ascent of the killer mountain Nanga Parbat (8,125 m) during this winter climbing season.
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21233

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Karrar Haidri » Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:05 pm


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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Andes6000 » Sat Feb 02, 2013 1:25 am

Man, I haven't heard about Wielicki in ages, what a strong bas. 5 exp attempting nanga at the same time, woa, talk about some race to the top!

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Karrar Haidri » Sat Feb 16, 2013 4:11 pm


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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Karrar Haidri » Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:28 pm

Winter Pakistan: Broad Peak climbers in Camp 3 and beyond
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21282

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Karrar Haidri » Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:09 pm

The Polish made the First Winter SUMMIT on Broad Peak
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21314

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Vitaliy M. » Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:26 pm


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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Scott » Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:52 pm

Edited because of possible bad news.
Last edited by Scott on Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by yatsek » Tue Mar 05, 2013 6:04 pm

Last edited by yatsek on Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by PeterCorneliusSpaeth » Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:02 am

Incredible guys. But it seems while two of them made it back to their highcamp at 7400m the other two last night had to bivouc on the col at 7900m. I hope they all safely make it down at least to C2 today. As reported wind was low but still extremely cold. Hope for no frostbites !

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Tomek Lodowy » Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:08 am

Early morning news is that they can't reach any contact with two guys bivouacing at 7900 ... hoping for good news only later today.

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Charle » Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:23 pm

According to the polish news sites the chances are declining dramatically.. I hope they will somehow make it.


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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by richardh » Sat Mar 09, 2013 10:54 am

Krzysztof Wielicki put out a statement yesterday (8 March) saying:
Considering all the circumstances, conditions, my experience, history of Himalayan mountaineering, knowledge regarding physiology and high-altitude medicine as well as consultations with doctors and co-organizers of the expedition in Poland, I have to declare Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski dead.
Taking into account the time that has passed since the last contact, altitude where it took place, their condition, current weather conditions and all other factors, I have to claim openly that both climbers are dead.
The expedition has come to an end. We are packing the base camp and start to descend. March via the Baltoro Glacier will take approximately 5 days. We will come back to Poland on approximately 20th March. Due to lack of electricity, we will not have any possibilities to maintain contact via telephones or e-mails and thus, the will not be any information about us till approximately 15th March.


http://polishwinterhimalaism.pl/pages/p ... on-637.php

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Re: Polish mountaineers to attempt climb Broad Peak

by Karrar Haidri » Mon Mar 11, 2013 11:56 am

2012-13 Polish Winter Broad Peak: Farewell to the two climbers and the peak
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21327

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