New possible FA's of peaks in Albania

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kamil

 
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New possible FA's of peaks in Albania

by kamil » Tue Jul 30, 2013 11:53 pm

Just back from climbing in Prokletije / Bjeshket e nemuna.
Completed what I called "Grand Slam of Grbaja" for my own use. Climbed the remaining possibly unclimbed peaks in the group of Maja Lagojvet in the Grbaja valley amphitheatre. After the quite certain FA of Maja Lagojvet (about 2540 m) in 2009, possible FA of Maja Preht (about 2450 m) in 2012 and quite a bit of scouting in the meantime, now we climbed what I call "Peak L3", about 2455 m (name unknown to me) with my friends Michal and Racibor, and Maja Peje, about 2435 m, with Michal. Both routes climb the north faces in very chossy, dangerous rock. Both are possible FA's of the respective peaks.
Routes:
"Peak L3" - route "Pegs Of Peace" (matching name with "Peacehammer" :D ), IV+ UIAA, 3 pitches, 125 m, 19 July 2013.
Maja Peje - route "Goat Path Of Peace", II UIAA, unroped, about 300 m, 1 abseil from summit ridge on return, 21 July 2013.
Names of those peaks (except Maja Lagojvet) cannot be found on any map, I only know them from local shepherds. "L3" is my provisional name (M.Lagojvet being L1, M.Preht - L2, and M.Peje - L4). There are no really good maps of the area anyway.
On 25 July 2013 with Michal we climbed Maja Aljis (about 2470 m) between Ropojana and Thethi valleys, also in the Albanian part of the range. The day before we met Gerhard Duro, an Albanian mountain guide and climber, who told us he had climbed this peak with his friends from Valbona valley (IV-V UIIAA), and his father and partners had climbed it in the 70's, so ours could be the 3rd ascent of the peak. We climbed the west ridge by a possible new route which we called "Alice in Wonderland" (IV- UIAA), referring to the peak name and the winding, complicated character of the line. The ridge is almost 1 km long, most of it being extremely chossy, unprotectable class 4 YDS (II UIAA) with 2 protectable pitches of III and IV- UIAA respectively. We had a few close shaves with falling rocks and an unplanned bivvy at the descent.
More details will follow...

Image
From right to left:
Maja Lagojvet (highest), Maja Preht (the sharp one), "Peak L3" (partly hidden behind Maja Preht), Maja Peje (far) and Maja Vukoces/Gjavahirit (close).

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Proterra

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