Hello,
I'm looking forward to next year since I plan to try Aconcagua and hopefully return to Nepal for Baruntse.
Since I'm not a very experienced climber at all (been to 6k at most in Nepal with newbie gear), I do want so advice from you guys.

I did some gear restock this year. I have some questions about purchasing more/better gear and about my current stuff:
- I have the summit series Northface Himalayan Parka (800 down). Do I actually need it up there? I suspect that I might, but maybe there are lighter options.
- I also have their Goretex Summit Series shell which can be worn over the Parka.
- Helmet - needed?

- Shell pants - I have Rab Bergen event shell pants. Good enough? They seem sturdy and light.
- Mid layer pants - I have warm Polartec 200 fleece bibs. They are warm, but are they enough?
- Thermal layer - have the thickest shirt+pant I could find. Useful to get another layer?

- Boots. This is problem for me being size 13UK. I measured Boreal G1 Expediton boots but they were too small at size 12. I assume their size 13 G1 Lites won't do either.
I am now checking the option to buy Mammut Eiswand GTX or try to order Mammut Nordwand 2.1 boots. Are those enough for 7k peaks or too light?
Problem is, La Sportiva don't make boots large enough at all and Millet don't have distributors in my country. I could fly to another country nearby and buy the Everests if needed, but I think they might be overkill for Aconcagua at least. About Baruntse you tell me.

- Crampons. I find strap crampons to be most versatile and useful, and they can also be worn with my lighter Mammut boots I use mostly for the trek or when it's not too cold. Should I get newmatics for Aconcagua or are straps enough?
- Ice axe - any use for 2, or is 1 enough?
- Harness - I prefer Black Diamond Couloir. Are there better options? Does it matter?



Any advice and help will be answered with a huge thanks!

Wear the shell under the parka, not over.

Boots - pretty sure Sportiva made their Baruntse model in a US15 (UK14). They'd be fine for both Aco and Baruntse. Otherwise check out Lowa boots, as they make big sizes in some models.

Strap on crampons are fine for Aco where you'll probably only need them on summit day and there is no technicality. They'd be OK on Baruntse too, but that final ridge section is no place to have loose crampons.

The rest of your gear seems fine for those two peaks.

You might want some softshell pants on Aconcagua, where it won't rain. Use Aco as a test to sort out your gloves and head/face protection.

Thanks for the informative reply!
Hmm, what's the logic behind wearing the shell underneath the down parka? As far as I know I want to protect the down...

I'll check Sportiva's Baruntse boots. I guess the names says it

I do have softshells pants with me always, and also a jacket.

sstbrg wrote:Hmm, what's the logic behind wearing the shell underneath the down parka? As far as I know I want to protect the down...

1. It's easier to put on/off that way without wasting time and warmth messing with layers/harness etc.
2. A shell well-fitted enough to climb in will compress a down jacket underneath it, decreasing loft and warmth. Only the thinnest of down jackets should be able to fit under a shell.
3. Sweat will move through your inner layers and into the down jacket before hitting the shell if you wear it on the outside, reducing loft and warmth. A shell underneath keeps any dampness inside, while the down outside still traps the warm air.
4. The down jacket should have a protective enough outer shell as it is. If it's raining, it's probably too warm to be wearing a down jacket.

Damien, awesome points. Many thanks!

Sunny Buns, the normal route: Plaza de Mules, Berlin, Independencia...
Thanks for the helpful links !

Question, do you guys have experience ordering from trekkinn ? Especially with their return policy?
I can't find a store where I can measure any of the boots talked about here, so my option is to order online, try and possibly return and try again.

sstbrg wrote:...do you guys have experience ordering from trekkinn ? Especially with their return policy?

I've ordered from them and it was fine, but shipping to here in Australia was expensive - maybe DHL? So returns might be costly.

sstbrg wrote:- Helmet - needed?
- Ice axe - any use for 2, or is 1 enough?
- Harness - I prefer Black Diamond Couloir. Are there better options? Does it matter?

Depending on conditions, a helmet might not be a bad idea although most folks don't use one for the normal route or the false Polish route. If there is snow in the canaleta (there was when I climbed it) the risk of rockfall is minimal. You definitely don't need two ice tools. And you don't need a harness unless conditions in the canaleta are so icy that a rope is needed. I don't know how common that is.

Thanks for the replies guys!

Boot-wise:
I've spoken to La Sportiva and Millet directly, the only option I have right now is to go straight to the Millet Summit Everests, which are an overkill but it's either that or nothing at this point, plus the price seems to be OK.
MIllet's dev. team saw my measurements and recommended a size 47 1/3 for my 30cm feet. Worst case I'll return the boot to get a bigger/smaller size and lose 50 euros for shipping. Considering La Sportiva offered a much much pricier solution and Boreal said they can't offer me anything other than the G1 Expe's I measured, I'll go with Millet.