Image taken on July 14th, 2016.
Kautz Glacier Route:
This route is in “very good” condition. The Nisqually Glacier is shallow and not complicated to cross (assuming you know what you are doing). To avoid crossing Wilson Glacier’s crevasses, climb up the (climber’s) left side of the cleaver to The Turtle. You may have to walk on the rocky cleaver for a while. To enter the ice chute bellow the Kautz Ice Cliff go left bellow Camp Hazard (you may see some camp spots there; do not follow footprints on the right side leading to the higher Camp Hazard). There is a short vertical rock section with fixed rope to rappel. Cross the first gully quickly but carefully (it looks messy) to gain access to icy slope. There are two sections of ice to climb to gain access to upper Kautz Glacier. Make no mistake; although not too steep, it is technical ice climbing at this point (climbers rappel on the way down; bring ice screws). The rest of the route is straightforward with not too many crevasses to navigate/cross (assuming you know what you are doing). Although some crevasses may be narrow; there are still deep.
Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route:
The section bellow the summit is featured with huge crevasses/icefalls and reasonably steep slopes. Do NOT fall because some sections to deep crevasses are short and you may not be able to self arrest. The route (snow path) is rerouted by guides if necessary. Just follow the snow path and wands. Do not go in to a section which is closed by crossed wands (and rerouted). There are two short ladders above and below DC. There are several snow anchors and even fixed ropes set by guides in more dangerous sections. The upper DC is still covered with snow. Although due to the snow path leading to the summit the route is simple, it may still be very dangerous if the weather rapidly changes or a climber makes even a slight mistake.
The rock falls are all over the mountain days and nights. Make sure you are not on their way.
So DO NOT count on luck! Be prepared! Mt Rainier has already taken a few lives this season and many others have got in trouble.
NOTICE: The current conditions may vary depending on past weather.
Here is a video from my previous attempts:
Mt Rainier via Kautz Glacier Two Solo Attempts
https://www.facebook.com/MountaineeringConnections/videos/886209398173324/
Climb Safe!