Rainier Gear

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berick1

 
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Rainier Gear

by berick1 » Sat Dec 04, 2010 4:18 pm

I'm looking to do a July or August climb or Rainier and don't like the idea of renting boots. This will be my first climb but not my last. Any suggestions on boots? I have a pair of La Sportiva hikers that I really like but am open to any brand. Thoughts?

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by ExcitableBoy » Sat Dec 04, 2010 4:51 pm

My $0.02:

What you want is a pair of lightly insulated, single leather, full shank mountaineering boots with Vibram soles that have a welt in the toe of the boot and a welt in back. This will allow you to use any type of crampon binding. A rubber rand that encircles the lower part of the boot will help protect the boot and improvve rock climbing performance. These will serve you well on Rainier and pretty much every other mountain lower 48, volcanos in Mexico, the European Alps, etc. The full shank will allow you to ice climb should you decide to give that a try.

I would look into La Sportiva Nepal Top Evo and Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX. If you can find the Scarpa Summit on sale (it is discontinued) this is also an excellent boot. IMHO, Scarpa and La Sportiva are the highest quality and most invovate manufacturers of mountaineering boots. La Sportiva tends to fit a narrowish foot while Scarpas tend to fit wider feet. There are certainly other brands that make suitable boots including Kayland, Lowa, Raichle, Millet.

Boots are one of the most important pieces of gear to get right. If your boots don't fit correctly or are not suitable for the type of climbing you are doing it can make your life very miserable. Don't cheap out. Expect to pay $400 for a good pair. That said, once you find a suitable pair that fits your feet perfectly, you can bargain hunt a bit.

One of your problems is finding a mountaineering store that sells a selection of boots for you to try on. The REI in my town does not carry proper mountaineering boots. You may have to shop on the intenet. If you do this buy a number of different brands in a couple of sizes so you have a selection to try on. My wife loves Zappos.com because they have free shipping and returns.

Below are links to a few boots that would be appropriate:

http://www.zappos.com/scarpa-mont-blanc-gtx-mango
http://www.zappos.com/la-sportiva-nepal-evo-gtx-yellow
http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/produ ... 4175/N/670
http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/produ ... 3738/N/670
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,201 ... r-Men.html

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bird

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by bird » Sat Dec 04, 2010 5:39 pm

Dan's reply is spot on.
For another option, especially if you are not sure about how much mountaineering you will be doing, check these out.
http://www.madrockclimbing.com/products ... tem=100056
They fit my feet very well (medium width) and I've found them warm and comfortable.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by ExcitableBoy » Sat Dec 04, 2010 5:50 pm

bird wrote:Dan's reply is spot on.
For another option, especially if you are not sure about how much mountaineering you will be doing, check these out.
http://www.madrockclimbing.com/products ... tem=100056
They fit my feet very well (medium width) and I've found them warm and comfortable.


I specifically did not mention Mad Rock because although they make fine products, I believe the owner is unscrupulous. Same with Omega Pacific. But those are my just my personal biasis.

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Kai

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by Kai » Sun Dec 05, 2010 2:09 am

Scarpa Omega double boot might also be a good choice. Very light, pretty warm, and you can dry the liners out in your sleeping bag overnight.

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Autoxfil

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by Autoxfil » Sun Dec 05, 2010 2:20 am

Dan is on the money for Rainier boots - I'd vote for the Mammut Mammook.

I see you live in Georgia - where will you be climbing, mostly? Do you want to do technical ice or rock? Higher altitude? Don't buy the perfect Rainier boot if that doesn't fit with your climbing plans.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by ExcitableBoy » Sun Dec 05, 2010 3:37 pm

La Sportiva Nepal Top Evo on sale now at Whittaker Mountaineering. I have mail ordered from them and they have been really great. Since you already have La Sportiva boots you should already know how they fit and your appropriate size. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/ ... al-evo-gtx

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CONSIGLIEREG8R

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by CONSIGLIEREG8R » Mon Dec 06, 2010 2:28 pm

I live in Florida. My only climb this year will be Rainier. I also don't like the idea of renting boots without working into them as well. I have tried to purchase some Scarpa's on ebay to test here. We don't have and REI or any other place within 250 miles. I hate to buy (full price)sight unseen> Also the bulk of my hiking/training will be done in 90+ degree heat and high humidity. Any suggestions?

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Autoxfil

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by Autoxfil » Mon Dec 06, 2010 4:12 pm

Two options as I see it:

1) mail order 6-10 pairs of boots. Try them on around the house for a week, return the ones that don't fit. I'd get Mammut Mamooks, LaSportiva Trango Primes, whatever the new Scarpa is, and maybe a Kayland or something. Get each in two sizes, or maybe three. You just need the credit limit to have $3000 on there until the others get returned.

2) fly/drive to the Adirondacks or Whites (or Sierra Nevada, or...) and combine a training climb with gear buying at someplace like the Mountaineer. This is really fun, great practice and training, and you get fitted by a pro.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by ExcitableBoy » Mon Dec 06, 2010 4:13 pm

CONSIGLIEREG8R wrote:I live in Florida. My only climb this year will be Rainier. I also don't like the idea of renting boots without working into them as well. I have tried to purchase some Scarpa's on ebay to test here. We don't have and REI or any other place within 250 miles. I hate to buy (full price)sight unseen> Also the bulk of my hiking/training will be done in 90+ degree heat and high humidity. Any suggestions?


Rent a pair of plastic boots, but carry them in your backpack on the approach to high camp. Wear approach shoes/low top hiking shoes/trail running shoes for the approach. Wear the plastics for the summit attempt only. If the fit is not perfect you will be wearing them for a shorter duration. To improve the fit of the rented boots bring a combination of socks (thin liner, medium weight, and heavy socks), any orthotics or after market insoles you may be using in your athletic shoes, a box of special blister bandages, and duct tape. Put duct tape on the areas of your foot that can develop hot spots to prevent blisters (e.g. your heels, outside of your foot).

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Autoxfil

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by Autoxfil » Mon Dec 06, 2010 6:17 pm

That is a very good idea. Cheap light sneakers work great for the lower elevations, and you still have the safety margin of warm doubles up high.

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nickmech

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by nickmech » Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:37 am

First or only time on Rainier? Just rent plastics with crampons and don't worry about it. Most guided people and newbees do. Take time when fitting your size and you shouldn't have any problems. Leave the top lace loose so you have a good gap at your shin for the hike in. Early season with a big snow year you will be on snow from the parking lot. Late summer you hit the snow within 1to 1 1/2 hours. After a couple climbs and you want to spend the bucks for boots, you'll know what you like from seeing what others are wearing.

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CONSIGLIEREG8R

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by CONSIGLIEREG8R » Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:04 am

due to my job and family it is likely first and only time to for Rainier or any other similar mountains. BUT I want to do everything in my power to reach the summit. I understand there may be many things that prohibit making the summit, but I don't want blister's feet issues to be one of them.

Since I am going with RMI, I assume that I will be roped up with other climbers. How many are in a group? How ofter do they stop? If I wear my light hiking shoes, will I hold up everything changing to boots? I am working to try to be sure I am not the slowest one. This is the first time I have gone without a group that I have climbed with before.
\
Thanks for all the help

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nickmech

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by nickmech » Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:40 am

Since I am going with RMI, I assume that I will be roped up with other climbers. How many are in a group? How ofter do they stop? If I wear my light hiking shoes, will I hold up everything changing to boots? I am working to try to be sure I am not the slowest one. This is the first time I have gone without a group that I have climbed with before.
The hike up to Muir is easy going and nobody gets in a hurry. RMI puts 4 clients with 1 guide per rope team. Can be 4 or 5 teams leaving from Muir one after the other. Breaks are about every hour and half or so to the summit. You leave Muir with boots on, roped up so don't worry about that. Best thing is to be fit, psyched, eating and drinking water as you go and you will cruise it.

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Autoxfil

 
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Re: Rainier Gear

by Autoxfil » Wed Dec 08, 2010 3:11 am

CONSIGLIEREG8R wrote:due to my job and family it is likely first and only time to for Rainier or any other similar mountains. BUT I want to do everything in my power to reach the summit. I understand there may be many things that prohibit making the summit, but I don't want blister's feet issues to be one of them.

Since I am going with RMI, I assume that I will be roped up with other climbers. How many are in a group? How ofter do they stop? If I wear my light hiking shoes, will I hold up everything changing to boots? I am working to try to be sure I am not the slowest one. This is the first time I have gone without a group that I have climbed with before.
\
Thanks for all the help


Get fit. Find the longest stairs you can and do an hour at a time on them with a 30-40lb pack 3 times a week. Just go as hard as you can and still maintain a consistent pace for an hour. If you do that from now until Rainier, you'll be one of the fittest people in your group. Don't worry too much about cross-training with weights or cycling or anything - the biggest gains come from getting really efficient at hiking uphill with a pack.

Then, when on the mountain, hydrate thoroughly. 16oz per hour is good. You won't feel like eating, but do it anyway. Focus on moving efficiently and smoothly and you will "cruise", as the last poster said.

The best thing you can do for your feet if you're concerned about blisters is a thin liner sock with another sock over it. Any friction will be between the socks, not your skin and the sock/boot. Your foot is going to move in plastics, so buy a couple pairs of these:

http://www.rei.com/product/618127?prefe ... erralID=NA

and these:

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/p ... GoogleBase

for extra insurance. But really, the hike to the summit doesn't have enough steps in it to cause blisters unless something is really terrible with the fit. Your quads and calves will be what hurts. :-)

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