Reaching our limits

Post general questions and discuss issues related to climbing.
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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Fri Oct 02, 2009 1:57 am

5.12d
5.11c at 13K
WI7
M9

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phydeux

 
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by phydeux » Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:17 am

The Chief wrote:5.12d
5.11c at 13K
WI7
M9


:D That's an interesting way to put it! :D

Me:

Highest: Aconcagua by the crossover route
Highest (on a bicycle): White Mountain, CA. 14,242 ft
Most Satisfying: Illimani, Bolivia; nice mixed climb with three buds and a guide on a beautifully clear day. The second best summit view after . . . .
Most satisfying #2: Telescope Peak in the USA. Easy trail hike up to the 11,000 ft summit, but did it on a clear, cold early spring day when the views were endless. My most memorial summit view.

Still scrambling around the southwest USA, but have no intention of going higher or on any hard technical routes again.

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Diego Sahagún

 
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by Diego Sahagún » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:07 am

The Chief wrote:5.12d
5.11c at 13K
WI7
M9

13K is your height record :?:
Last edited by Diego Sahagún on Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:40 am, edited 2 times in total.

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barrys

 
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by barrys » Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:32 am

Wow, old old topic. But interesting.

Highest I've been - Thorung La Nepal, 5400metres. Highest peak summited, Mun Peak, India, 4,610.

I've had expensive failures and crap luck due to bad weather in trying to climb Tharpu Chulli and Mera Peak so I'd be reluctant to spend big on expedition style outings again but if I ever have the money and time to spare something like Muztagh Ata would be the ultimate limit.

Next summer the goal is Rochefort ridge and Mont Blanc. I've never set foot on any route above AD alpine grades and when it comes to rock my limits are....well, so far below those posted by Chief that i ain't gonna bother posting mine.

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kamil

 
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by kamil » Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:45 am

Never been as high as most of yous :)
Highest - Grossglockner 3798m (and perhaps most stupid as in the days before the climb I had driven across half the continent, attended friends' wedding party, had hardly any sleep the 2 nights before and climbed up and down the mountain in 1 day...)
Toughest - Maja Lagojvet ~2540m, a remote peak in Albania, first ascent (VII- / 5.10b/c with A0/AF)
Hardest sport climb - VIII+ / 7a+ / 5.12a ? in Polish limestones when I was young and strong :lol:
While I probably won't reach my old sport climbing level again I still got all chances to go higher and climb more and harder technical mountains.

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Fri Oct 02, 2009 3:20 pm

Diego Sahagún wrote:
The Chief wrote:5.12d
5.11c at 13K
WI7
M9

13K is your height record :?:


Negative...

4897m (16,067ft) is.

But altitude is not my game.

Performing at my best/limt in Rock and Ice disciplines, is.

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Buckaroo

 
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by Buckaroo » Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:11 pm

Started as a peak bagger, did Blanca Peak in winter, then on to Rainier. Had a list of the big Alaska peaks and some in South America, and maybe in the back of the mind something in the Himalaya.

but then started technical climbing and there was really good stuff close by and the difficulty took precedence over the altitude. That combined with being on the downside of prime and the high stuff has sort of gone by the wayside.

Although wouldn't mind a try at the Liongrat on the Matterhorn.

the stuff that really interests me has no walk up.

Highest Rainier
Biggest rock climb, Salathe on El Cap, (led the crux pitches)
Hardest alpine solo, Index Peaks traverse, 5.7 [5.8] 6,500 ft gain.
Hardest ice solo, V
Crag trad, 5.11a

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Snowslogger

 
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by Snowslogger » Sun Oct 04, 2009 4:55 am

Turning into a lightweight - 3-4 beers is usually about my limit :lol:

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Mon Oct 05, 2009 4:04 pm

The Chief wrote:
Diego Sahagún wrote:
The Chief wrote:5.12d
5.11c at 13K
WI7
M9

13K is your height record :?:


Negative...

4897m (16,067ft) is.

But altitude is not my game.

Performing at my best/limt in Rock and Ice disciplines, is.



Chief, what 12d? - just curious.

My best on-site was 12a.......... at the brand new, Dike Wall.

JB got wind of it and had the climb down rated to 11d......

ah for one shinning moment I was thrilled with myself. :wink:

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ksolem

 
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by ksolem » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:10 pm

I'm more into rock climbing than moutaineering, so my high points are limited to Sierra 14ers like Whitney, Williamson, Langley, Humphreys etc. (all by technical routes mostly solo.)

I did the second lead of Games Without Frontiers in Joshua Tree at 5.13a/b, and the FA of Siezure there at a sandbag 5.12c (John Burkaw did the second lead and told me he had done several easier 13's...)

I did a thing up at Courtright once with Jan and Guyzo we called .12c. A better climber than I went and did it and said it might be among the hardest climbs of its kind anywhere (steep thin slab.) The route is flawed though, we climbed to the highest point we could achieve and set an anchor there. Obviously the crux lies above...

The hardest and best thing overall I've done though is this mere .12a called Despairadoes. Of course like any big project, this was a team effort (featuring Guyzo and the inimitable Chelsea Griffie.)

Anyway, for a few years there I was a pretty reliable 5.12 leader with occasional forays onto harder terrain. Now that a two and a half year neurological nightmare appears to be just about behind me I am training again. We'll see what this new effort yields...

Hey, if we keep this up maybe we can get this thread moved to the "spray" forum... :wink:

edit: Borut, that looks fully radical! What is it (yeah I should probably know, but...)

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CClaude

 
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by CClaude » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:49 pm

Borut,

Is there a directissima to that thing. Thee wall looks amazing.

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:39 pm

Borut Kantušer wrote:Image
my everest


Looks f-kng RAD....

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mconnell

 
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by mconnell » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:56 pm

Seems to me that this thread belong in the "Spray" forum.
:wink:

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Bruno

 
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by Bruno » Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:46 am

I guess this one is pretty much off limits for most of us, at least without bottled oxygen... :)

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