Shasta April 2010

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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ScottyP

 
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by ScottyP » Tue Apr 27, 2010 7:01 am

I was right at 40#s last week on Casaval. That was for two nights (We hiked in to Horse Camp at night) and two tents for two people as I was testing gear. A normal climb for two nights on Casaval I suspect I would be at 35#s. We also failed to summit due to partners conditioning. FWIW Scott

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rhyang

 
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by rhyang » Tue Apr 27, 2010 3:29 pm

hikenorcal wrote:No the Dodger fan didn't summit. Carried way too much gear to giddy giddy. I need some tips on how to travel light. I am guessing my pack was 45 lbs. By the time I hauled that pack to the top of Giddy Giddy, I was exhausted. Didn't wake unitl 4 am. Knew our summit bid was over. We climbed the route past the bivy site at 10,400 or so. We didn't go much further past that point. Sunday was absoultely beautiful.

9 hours!!!! That is incredible. Nice work.... That is the work of a champion....

We are the two that camped near the person who summited with you. He was also a champion. Nice work to anyone who summited Shasta on 4-25. The winds were off the hook Saturday night.


Ah, now I remember you guys. Thanks for letting me camp there -- I wasn't sure it would be ok with three parties that close together. But you're right, the winds on Saturday were such that you pretty much couldn't hear anything outside the tent :) I thought it calmed down quite a bit on Sunday, but it was still cold & windy. Two words: windstopper balaclava !

As I recall you guys brought a rope & pickets -- that would weight you down too. There really isn't much point in bringing gear on most south side routes so that's something you can leave out next time.

West Face Gully is a nice route, I've done it several times. The crux really is getting to Hidden Valley :) It's only about a mile from the hut, but a lot of people seem to climb up a snow gully too early to a spur of Casaval Ridge above the valley. WFG should be in shape well into June or even July this year I would think. And it's way less windy than camping on Casaval. Feel free to shoot me an email before your trip and I can send you some pics & GPS coordinates.

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rhyang

 
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by rhyang » Tue Apr 27, 2010 3:35 pm

Thanks Robin -- I was hoping to stop by last Saturday and pick up a season summit pass, but the USFS office was closed. The Fifth Season didn't have any either. So I just brought mine from last year (got it last May 15th, though it says it expired on 31-December). Just an fyi :)

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hikenorcal

 
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by hikenorcal » Tue Apr 27, 2010 3:44 pm

Thank you for the tips rhyang. Your photos are great. Thank you for sharing. I just joined summit post for this last casaval trip. It is a great website that is already helping me learn more. I always meet good people mountaineering. Next weather window will be my next trip to Shasta.

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rlshattuck

 
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by rlshattuck » Tue Apr 27, 2010 6:04 pm

Go Vitaliy,

glad you made it there and back . . . 9 nine hours!

seeyou in the gym.

b.

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Luciano136

 
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by Luciano136 » Tue Apr 27, 2010 6:32 pm

Nice work everyone!!

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stonefree

 
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Climb

by stonefree » Sun May 02, 2010 1:51 am

I will be up on Casaval on May 19th, 20th and 21st. It looks like there is a lot of snow up there right now. Do folks think that it might have melted out substantially by then? I might also be able to go up on the 12th, 13th and 14th, just wondering what people who had been up this season could say to this.

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