Shasta: May-June

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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rhyang

 
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by rhyang » Wed Jun 02, 2010 3:00 pm

Anybody seen the north side recently ? When I did Casaval in April things on the Whitney looked a bit wind-scoured -

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Look at all that exposed blue ice !

I guess we'll see what's what once Northgate TH opens up ..

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tmaxwell

 
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by tmaxwell » Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:31 pm

How about the trek to Horse Camp for June 10, do you think snowshoes will be a must?

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CODave

 
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by CODave » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:05 pm

tmaxwell wrote:How about the trek to Horse Camp for June 10, do you think snowshoes will be a must?


My group went up to Lake Helen on 5/29 and summited on 5/30 via Avalanche Gulch. We didn't bring snowshoes and never felt like we needed them. There is a packed trail the whole way... but things could change if a lot of snow falls, that's just how things were for us this past weekend.

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tmaxwell

 
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by tmaxwell » Thu Jun 03, 2010 4:34 pm

Thanks CODave

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RickF

 
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by RickF » Fri Jun 04, 2010 4:09 am

I made the 10 hour drive from So. Cal. with a friend on Tuesday 5/25. We waited out cloudy and rainy weather on Wednesday 5/26. On Thursday 5/27 it was still cloudy and snowing, four more friends joined us and we took an afternoon trip to the Hut at Horse Camp. Four of us were on skis and two on snowshoes. On Friday 5/28 we drove as far as we could up the road toward the Clear Creek Trailhead. Snow drifts and fallen trees blocked the road about 4.5 miles short of the trailhead. We went in on foot and camped at the trailhead, according to our probing, there was 8 feet of snow on the road at the trailhead. Saturday 5/29 we advanced to 8,000 feet and made camp for a second night. Sunday morning 5/30 my partner was sick with stomach issues, food poisoning or something, the rest of the group lost interest and motivation so we broke camp descended back to the cars and drove home.

We didn't get anywhere close to the summit but I had lots of fun with my friends. We did some serious shopping at the Fifth Season, that store is well equiped. While waiting out the weather, we ate at Seven Suns, Strings, Mike & Tony's, and Lilly's

Shasta is the only California Fourteener I haven't summitted yet. I made it to 11,000 feet on a solo attempt of Avalanche Gulch last year. This year we wanted to ski off the summit so our original plan was to go up Hotlum-Wintun Ridge. But with all the late snow this year, the approach to HR was an additional 19 miles. Clear Creek seemed like a good second choice with a shorter approach.

Conditions will be good for another couple of months but I can't get away again this summer so I'll go back again next Spring.

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Deb

 
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by Deb » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:51 pm

Wow Rick. Sorry your trip was so up and down. I'll be headed up there next weekend....10 hours? UGH! But then again, it'll take that long to summit. :lol: Sure wish someone would post WFG beta...... :(

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alexsuv

 
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Shasta avalanche risks

by alexsuv » Mon Jun 07, 2010 1:35 am

With all the avalanche warnings we are debating whether we go or not next weekend (June 12-13). Planning just the Avalanche Gulch route.

I listened to the very lengthy automated avalanche update at (530)926-9613 (avalanche hotline) and it is rather generic (be aware of risk, etc).

Apart from the weather (I can look it up) what is the real story with avalanches there currently? In other words if the weather is good (clear and no wind) could be still a high avalanche risk? I do not have any avalanche tools or skills, climbed Shasta before 5 times with no problem (July-Aug).

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nachreld

 
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by nachreld » Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:56 pm

Snow was great, but the weather was bad on Casaval May 21-22. We turned around after spending the night at 10,000. We will be climbing this weekend and I hope Northgate opens up for Hotlum/Bolam. Alternates for us this weekend include Casaval, West Face Gully, or Avalanche Gulch.

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Small window of clarity Saturday Morning before the wind and clouds returned. (Casaval Ridge; 10,000 ft; 5/22/2010)

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Deb

 
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by Deb » Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:51 am

nachreld wrote:Snow was great, but the weather was bad on Casaval May 21-22. We turned around after spending the night at 10,000. We will be climbing this weekend and I hope Northgate opens up for Hotlum/Bolam. Alternates for us this weekend include Casaval, West Face Gully, or Avalanche Gulch.

Image

Small window of clarity Saturday Morning before the wind and clouds returned. (Casaval Ridge; 10,000 ft; 5/22/2010)


HOLY CRAP! How deep are your pits?!
We're looking at WFG on 12 Jun - Yes, it HAS to be on 12 Jun. :?

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Deb

 
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by Deb » Tue Jun 08, 2010 2:59 pm

Vitaliy M wrote:Dayhike is the answer to the weather suffer : )

You got THAT right! :evil:

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nachreld

 
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by nachreld » Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:56 pm

RE: how deep are those pits?!

The wind was blasting us so we went deeper than we should have. Over night it dropped about 2 inches of very dry graupel like snow and filled in our pits. Live and learn!

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Blair

 
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by Blair » Tue Jun 08, 2010 6:19 pm

Called the hotline this morning; interesting and cool that they have such thing. Will have to keep on that this week in prep fro this Sat June 12.

Hey Telewoman, thanks for the updates youve been posting. Keep em coming! West face! :D

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dskoon

 
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by dskoon » Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:46 pm

Blair wrote:Called the hotline this morning; interesting and cool that they have such thing. Will have to keep on that this week in prep fro this Sat June 12.

Hey Telewoman, thanks for the updates youve been posting. Keep em coming! West face! :D


And, what did the ol' hotline info say?
How are avy conditions on Shasta?

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snowflake

 
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by snowflake » Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:17 pm

If anyone is going to the Wintun Glacier, see you there!

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nachreld

 
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by nachreld » Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:45 pm

snowflake wrote:If anyone is going to the Wintun Glacier, see you there!


Where are you starting your approach?

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