What about the NF Triumph? I now have both the triumph and the houdini, and the Triumph I find is burlier then the houdini making it reasonable for what you ask, and has HyVent DT, not gore or eVent, and the price isn't bad. I've got this current model of the Triumph and while I havn't had her long, she certainly blocks out the wind and wet considering the nasty weather we've had up here lately. High winds, freezing rain, horrid snow/slush conditions in the back country, Triumph fits the bill for me at least, in the category you describe.

Hey, I think the triumph is the lightest waterproof shell I've seen yet. Pricey, but it does everything else I need - I'll check it out more closely, thanks!

Have you looked at the GoLite Tumalo Storm jacket? Their site gives the following info:

Price - $150
Weight - 9 oz
Pockets - yes
Pit zips - yes

http://www.golite.com/Product/ProdDetai ... 69&t=&lat=

In the summertime I've usually worn a marmot precip on Shasta and Rainier -- blocks the wind, and is cheap. I'm kind of a fair weather climber really

I picked up an eVent shell about a year ago (Rab latok alpine), and still haven't worn it

adventurer wrote:A Marmot Precip jacket (about $89) would be fine on Rainier in July.

I have used a Marmot Precip many times on Rainier and it works well. It recently gave up the ghost and now I wear a Montbell Versalite which is similar but lighter. I always bring a wind shirt (Marmot Driclime) which I put on when it is windy and/or chilly. The hard shell comes out if it is snowing or raining but usually ends up staying in the pack quite a bit.

sneakyracer wrote:I have the MH Typhoon. RMI recommends it for a reason.

RMI recommends Mountain Hardwear products because they get paid to. Seriously.

ExcitibleBoy wrote:

sneakyracer wrote:I have the MH Typhoon. RMI recommends it for a reason.

RMI recommends Mountain Hardwear products because they get paid to. Seriously.

Yes, but there are several other options with the same concept so one can just pick one. The important thing is the concept, light weight waterproof fabric, features / venting options and durability. The features add to the versatility of the jacket in a wide variety of weather conditions. All of the major brands have a jacket similar to the MH Typhoon so one can just pick one. The prices vary somewhat but hover around $200.

The Marmot Mica Jacket ($130 MSRP) would be perfect. It is a lot more breathable than a Precip jacket due to its MemBrain fabric.

BLong wrote:The Marmot Mica Jacket ($130 MSRP) would be perfect. It is a lot more breathable than a Precip jacket due to its MemBrain fabric.

+1.

I was actually going to say the Marmot Essence, but it's about the same story. Lighter than the precip, and it's a membrane and not a laminate.

The Essence looks very nearly perfect - and it's 20% off at Moosejaw now. Throw in a web coupon and I might have to pull the trigger.

Thanks for the help, all!

adventurer wrote:A Marmot Precip jacket (about $89) would be fine on Rainier in July.

+1. Light, compressible.

Grampahawk wrote:

adventurer wrote:A Marmot Precip jacket (about $89) would be fine on Rainier in July.

+1. Light, compressible.

I got a Precip several years ago, because it was 1) light and 2) cheap. I have concluded that you really do get what you pay for. Although mine is OK, a friend's the same age has had the lining completely disintegrate. The cut seems too sloppy and the breathability is fairly poor.

I am trying to talk myself into a new Pata, but now am wondering about the Marmot Mica. Looks intriguing, but I don't want to make the same mistake all over again.

Anyone have experience with the Mica?

The Essence is a slightly more alpine-suited version of the Mica, but the same material and cut. I will probably climb in mine this weekend, as it should arrive tomorrow, I'm hitting a sport crag, and the weather forcast is lousy. I'll be sure to report back.

I'll post this in the gear section once I complete the review, but I thought I'd put it here too, since we're on-topic.

I got the Essence - fit is nice, big enough to breathe and move without being too baggy. It could be a touch trimmer, but I'm pretty skinny so everything fits me that way.

The sleeves could be two inches longer. They aren't short by any means, but when climbing the coverage when I reach is nice. The elastic cuffs are pretty loose, I'd like them snugger.

Length is better than I expected - longer in back, and decent coverage. I'd prefer another two inches there as well, but it's good enough as-is.

The chest pocket is small because it doubles as a stuff sack. It's big enough for a couple cliff bars or a medium size camera.

It has a decent amount of features for being so light. The mesh vents under the arms are very nice. There's a waist elastic cord with adjustable clamp, and the same on the hood. There's also a velcro hood volume adjustment. The hood is snug on my helmet, but it works - I have a BD Tracer, which is a very bulky helmet.

It's the light bit that's the ticket - a smidge under 7oz on my scale, and packs down to about the same size as a Houdini (you could stuff it into your jeans pocket).

In summary, it's not a climbing shell. It's clearly made for adventure racing and UL backpacking. But, it should do the trick in the alpine. when you won't be wearing it all the time. And, at half the weight of even the lightest true alpine shells, it'll be less burden in the pack when you don't need it. It is almost twice the weight of my Houdini, and less breathable - I'm interested to see how this fits into the shell spectrum, and how versatile it is.

When I get to do some climbing in it I'll report on breathability, fit while actually climbing, and how well it looks like it'll hold up long-term.

Having done commercial tree thinning on the Olympic Penninsula for a year and a half. I will swear to God, Jehovah, Allah, Buda, and the late Fritz Weissner that it don't matter what you wear; if it rains and you're trudging up a hill, your 60 dollar Patagonia undies will be soaked.

I have that OR Jacket with the pit zips that extend to the bottom of the waistband, effectively making it a modified poncho. But, if I need that much ventilation, I may as well take the damn thing off.