Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
Hey guys, was wondering if I could get some advice on snow pickets. Heading out to the Blanca for a bit, spent a bit of time there the season before last but never took any snow pickets, only thing we got done other than some warm ups was the French Direct which was mostly Ice Screws. In the Brad johnson guide it reccomends taking a few pickets for most routes, I know you can get some home made pickets out in Huaraz but figure I'll buy myself some of the MSR ones but I'm not sure what lengths are best employed for the mountains of the Blanca? They come in 2ft or 3ft length, would I want a couple of 3fts and a few 2fts? Or should I just get all 2 ft length? Or are 2ft pickets of little value and should I just get a quiver of monster 3ft pickets? Would appreciate some advice from some old sages.
I'm no old sage, but I just got back from spending a month in the Blanca. All we had were 2 ft pickets and they worked very well, so I would recommend getting a few of those. I don't think the 3 ft pickets are really necessary. You may also be able to pick up some pickets at one of the shops in the "Downtown" area of Huaraz near the Casa de Guias. Good beta on routes at the Casa de Guias too.
I agree; the 36" are too awkward to sling/rack and really not necessary in the Blanca's usual snow conditions; remember you can split the difference and buy them from MSR at 30" as well (or just cut down 36"ers)
you can get them from some of the glass shops in town. they normal use is for the glass frames because they are aluminum. much cheaper than the gear shops. i think we got them for 25 soles each. much lighter than the MSR ones. if you need the 3 ft pickets then you are swimming in sugar snow. the shop we went to is right across from the Cruz Del Sur bus station. they know exactly what these pickets are so you just have to ask for it.