Southern Yosemite: West Side Gems

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Dave Daly

 
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Southern Yosemite: West Side Gems

by Dave Daly » Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:59 pm

After putting in three years of blood, sweat, tears, SoYo has made a huge impression on my soul. The area is chock full of amazingly steep clean granite that provides the ascensionist anything from steep slab climbs to wildly exposed knob slingin'. Interestly enough, the place hardly sees a soul, mainly due in part to the "pilgrims" headed to the Big Ditch, passing this semi-obscure area on their way to 'Lemmingville".

Samples to make one salivate:

Grahm Doe enjoying 'Odyssey' (.11a)

Image

Sickness (.13a), Chiquito Dome

Image


I know a few of the Lost Boys who need to throw in their 2 cents! :wink:

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Fri Oct 23, 2009 3:10 pm

With all that chock all over them walls, looks like it has become the "Gorge" of the West side.

How many bolts so far Dave?

I heard well over 1000 maybe?

That's according to Jerry Anderson as of early this Summer.




I can see why Kevin Daniels (FIXE U.S.A.) is moving outta Bishop and next door to Hugh Hefner.....

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Dave Daly

 
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by Dave Daly » Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:02 pm

Too bad you've never been there Rick. And falling back on your "fault logic reset" response regarding east side climbing has been redirected to the "Ignore Mode". If you're ever ambious enough to get out of your comfort zone in Crowley, you'll know what I mean. :wink:

And don't redirect the subject matter to the east side.....the topic is about Southern Yosemite. :D

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:53 pm

Dave how about a "page" on SP?

And how is the "War" going?

:wink:

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Dave Daly

 
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by Dave Daly » Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:58 pm

Nah, this is one place you'll have to check out by "word of mouth". :wink: If you wanna see a few of the formations/domes/walls, check out rc.com. Doe has posted a few of them. I'll can safely say that this place has more formations and domes than the Domelands.

The war? If you're asking about the training out in Ft. Worth on the F-35.....its going great! :wink:

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:50 pm

Dave Daly wrote:Nah, this is one place you'll have to check out by "word of mouth". :wink: If you wanna see a few of the formations/domes/walls, check out rc.com. Doe has posted a few of them. I'll can safely say that this place has more formations and domes than the Domelands.

The war? If you're asking about the training out in Ft. Worth on the F-35.....its going great! :wink:


I will give Louie a call, he knows whats going on. :wink:

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Dave Daly

 
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by Dave Daly » Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:38 pm

Guyzo wrote:
Dave Daly wrote:Nah, this is one place you'll have to check out by "word of mouth". :wink: If you wanna see a few of the formations/domes/walls, check out rc.com. Doe has posted a few of them. I'll can safely say that this place has more formations and domes than the Domelands.

The war? If you're asking about the training out in Ft. Worth on the F-35.....its going great! :wink:


I will give Louie a call, he knows whats going on. :wink:



HAHAHA!! You mean.....he knows the accurate bolt count and how many holds have been chipped.......er, "comfortized". As Chief said, 1000 bolts........that may be what's on Shangri-La ALONE! :roll:

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Fri Oct 23, 2009 9:29 pm

Dave I hear that those guys go at it 24 hrs/day.

Rap and bolt at nite then "send" the "new climbs" the next day...... That's what I have been told.

Not the crew your hanging with, rather the LA "team"

What do you know?

Any firsthand info????

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:56 pm

Guyzo wrote:Dave I hear that those guys go at it 24 hrs/day.

Rap and bolt at nite then "send" the "new climbs" the next day...... That's what I have been told.

Not the crew your hanging with, rather the LA "team"

What do you know?

Any firsthand info????


That is what Jerry Anderson, the REAL LOCAL shared with me a couple of months ago.

Many of the original folks there in the SOYO area, are NOT happy at all with the behavior you described Guy, by any means.

Just going by what the old Hardman of the area feels about it all.

Something to think about....


Dave, I know that your stuff is cool. So do not take my post personally. I have just heard from local sources that there are some that are doing some very nasty things in that area that is pissing off some of the original folks of the SOYO area.

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:09 am

The Chief wrote:
Guyzo wrote:Dave I hear that those guys go at it 24 hrs/day.

Rap and bolt at nite then "send" the "new climbs" the next day...... That's what I have been told.

Not the crew your hanging with, rather the LA "team"

What do you know?

Any firsthand info????


That is what Jerry Anderson, the REAL LOCAL shared with me a couple of months ago.

Many of the original folks there in the SOYO area, are NOT happy at all with the behavior you described Guy, by any means.

Just going by what the old Hardman of the area feels about it all.

Something to think about....


Dave, I know that your stuff is cool. So do not take my post personally. I have just heard from local sources that there are some that are doing some very nasty things in that area that is pissing off some of the original folks of the SOYO area.


Chief, I have heard all sorts of stories. Maybe a trip up north is in order.

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:13 am

Guyzo wrote:Chief, I have heard all sorts of stories. Maybe a trip up north is in order.


Maybe... If I go, I would ask that Jerry Anderson join us for a full in depth report from the man himself.

He has more FA's, most of them undocumented, in that area stemming back to the late 60's, than anyone else.

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Nate D

 
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by Nate D » Wed Oct 28, 2009 6:00 am

The Chief wrote:
Guyzo wrote:Chief, I have heard all sorts of stories. Maybe a trip up north is in order.


Maybe... If I go, I would ask that Jerry Anderson join us for a full in depth report from the man himself.

He has more FA's, most of them undocumented, in that area stemming back to the late 60's, than anyone else.


With some prodding, over the past couple years, Anderson has documented almost all of his climbs. I'm sure he'd love to give you a tour. In recent months he has done a significant amount of bolt replacement work with the ASCA. As you know, great guy and genuine pioneer.

I see Dave, like myself (another long distance local), is likely missing the great rock in quiet SoYo about now. But what gives with the two pics of some of the most highly bolted newish sport walls at Shuteye? (NTTAWWT) :wink: Just not representative of the area as a whole, IMO.

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Dave Daly

 
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by Dave Daly » Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:14 pm

Now, now Nate.....lets not form a prejudice divide between North and South Shutyeye. OOOPS!! Did I say that? :wink:

Actually Nate, I've probably posted most LE shots when a Shuteye discussion unfolds. Gotta cover all of Shuteye, right? :D

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by rhyang » Wed Oct 28, 2009 2:33 pm

I was just perusing Tom Slater's newest guide and it sounds like Hobbit Dome might be fun.

btw On p. 133 there is a topo for what is described as the "Hippo Wall" in the Tollhouse Rock area .. route photo is by Mark Spencer. Comments ?

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The Chief

 
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by The Chief » Wed Oct 28, 2009 2:57 pm

rhyang wrote:btw On p. 133 there is a topo for what is described as the "Hippo Wall" in the Tollhouse Rock area .. route photo is by Mark Spencer. Comments ?


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