Tatra

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar
damgaard

 
Posts: 75
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:06 pm
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

Tatra

by damgaard » Mon Aug 17, 2009 6:39 pm

Hi
I am planning a trip to the high Tatras in mid-September and have a few questions, I hope some people might be able to answer. I am planning some day trips and overnight trips and try to figure out the most interesting routes. I am using the following map sources
VKU Vysoke Tatry 1:25.000 (1999 version or so)
http://www.mapytatr.net/PRODUKTY/MAPY_T ... wys_ii.htm
http://www.turistickamapa.sk/?ref=navigator

1. We are arriving with plane in Krakow. What's the easiest way to get to the city centre and to Zakopane?

2. Do you need to make reservations in the huts? We are planning on using Murowaniec, hut at Przedni Staw Polski and Chata Pod Rysmi.

3. Do you need to bring sleeping bag, or do they have blankets in the hut, so the Alpenverein cover is enough?

4. Are there any via ferrata routes in the area?

5. We are planning on doing the Orla Perc. I see in the trip reports that it is secured with cables. Would you recommend bringing via ferrate gear (slings and harness) or will a helmet be sufficient?

6. Is it possible to sleep at the Kasprowy Wierch top lift station?

7. As I read it, you are allowed the cross the Polish/Slovak border on all trails. Right ? As I remember it this was not allowed 5 years ago.

8. Siroka. It looks like there is an unmarked trail following the border from Tatransja Javorina, over the peaks Kosiar, Svistocky, Siroka, Zamky, Horvatov Vrch and down to Bielovodska Dolina valley. You can even see the trail on Google Earth.
Is this peak/area still forbidden to climb? And if no, does anybody know the conditions/difficulty of this route, and how long it will take? It looks like 15-20 km and 1.500 m climb.

9. Our rough route is Zakopane, Orla Perc, Rysy, climb something on the Slovak side with a guide. We have already been on Gerlach, Krivan, Rysy and Vysoka Vychodna. Can you recommend other peaks/routes?

10. What is the easiest way to get from the Slovak side to Zakopane or Krakow?

Wow that ended up being quite many questions....

best regards
Jesper

User Avatar
peterbud

 
Posts: 213
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:12 am
Thanked: 6 times in 4 posts

by peterbud » Mon Aug 17, 2009 8:50 pm

Hello,

The maps are good. Reservation is a good idea, although I am not familiar with the September situation as for the crowds. They have blankets, but taking a sleeping bag can be benefitial, especially if you don't reserve and happen to get place on the floor :)

The only "ferrata" is Orla Perc, secured with chains and steel steps in places. Helmet is advised. In dry weather no need for ferrata gear but in wet/icy conditions (which can happen in September) it might save your life. I doubt the route is ready for all-along securing, but Polish SP memers will serve with better info soon, I guess.

You're allowed to cross the border on marked trails. Border patrol might ask for your ID occasionally. As for unmarked trails: the rules are clearly stated here.

To Q#9: Perhaps Vysoka? I haven't been on it but the peak is great and I bet the climb as well
To Q#10: I think through Lysa Polana.

Cheers, Peter

User Avatar
jck

 
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:08 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by jck » Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:55 am

#6. No, there's no overnight possibility.
#8. Siroka is in nature reserve. It's forbidden to do any activities in that area.
#9. Vysoka is good, but if you're a good climber choose something more demanding: Zabi Kon or Ostry Stit. Lomnicky stit. by Jordan's route is also a good option.

User Avatar
yatsek

 
Posts: 919
Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:04 pm
Thanked: 65 times in 50 posts

by yatsek » Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:33 am

1. from airport, then to/Zakopane
4. Actually, there's no via ferrata of the kind typical of the Alps (see Peterbud's above).
5. People usually die either via slipping on icy rock (e.g. while stepping from sunshine into the shade) or – less often – after being hit by a rock kicked by a tourist climbing above them.
9. Too many :)
10. By bus to Lysa Polana
(a more comfortable option is to hire a minibus) , by minibus/bus to Zakopane, by bus/train to Krakow (trains take longer unless at weekends – traffic jams)

User Avatar
damgaard

 
Posts: 75
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:06 pm
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

by damgaard » Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:48 am

Hi

Thanks for the quick replies.

We want to go light, so sleeping bags will stay at home. Guess I will make reservations for the first two nights. Aften then weather more or less decides how far and where we get.
We'll bring helmets for Orla Perc, and maybe the ferrata gear just in case.

Vysoka looks like a good option, although last time I was in the Tatras I had to help a guy how fell from that peak and suffered an open wound/broken shin-bone :( . I'm not a great climber, but with a guide we should be able to get on top of some semi-challenging peaks.

Too bad about Siroka. It looks like an interesting area, but I was afraid it would be closed.

cheers Jesper

User Avatar
yatsek

 
Posts: 919
Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:04 pm
Thanked: 65 times in 50 posts

by yatsek » Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:06 am

damgaard wrote: with a guide we should be able to get on top of some semi-challenging peaks.

You can do Ladovy
Cheers
Jacek (yatsek)

User Avatar
jck

 
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:08 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by jck » Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:25 pm

IMO Ladovy via the normal route is pretty boring...

User Avatar
yatsek

 
Posts: 919
Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:04 pm
Thanked: 65 times in 50 posts

by yatsek » Fri Aug 21, 2009 10:44 am

What about Lomnicky Peak? Maybe via Copper Benches, and here
Last edited by yatsek on Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

User Avatar
Wiktoria Plawska

 
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:53 pm
Thanked: 2 times in 2 posts

by Wiktoria Plawska » Sat Aug 22, 2009 12:12 am

5. We are planning on doing the Orla Perc. I see in the trip reports that it is secured with cables. Would you recommend bringing via ferrate gear (slings and harness) or will a helmet be sufficient?
......
I climbed it with no helmet or harness, the chains are pretty good, so it is not that important i think.
I have a trip report on it and plenty of pictures, if you have more questions- feel free to ask.



7. As I read it, you are allowed the cross the Polish/Slovak border on all trails. Right ? As I remember it this was not allowed 5 years ago.
.......
When i climbed Rysy at one point i crossed the border, i belive it legal- but you must have a passport with you if some guard is there.

User Avatar
damgaard

 
Posts: 75
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:06 pm
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

by damgaard » Tue Sep 22, 2009 6:24 am

Hi all

Thx for providing all the beta. We had a great trip, though weather was rather unstable, so we had to make some changes to our plans. Managed to do Orla Perc, Koscielec, Hruby Stit and Mnich in four days though - ohhh and spotted a big bear ;0)

Maybe some of you Polish people can help clarify something. We met an old guy, 55 or so but I can't remember his name, in the 5 lakes cabin, and we can't figure out if he was either really cool and experienced or full of ***. According to him he had 11 times been above 8.000 m. I know Poland has good mountaineering traditions, but this would make him almost Reinhold Messner. Furthermore he claimed that 45 people have died on Mnich since 1945. No doubt it has claimed lives, but that many? Anyways, he just tried to sound like THE mountain man, but half of what he said was clearly untrue or strongly biased.

cheers Jesper

User Avatar
yatsek

 
Posts: 919
Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:04 pm
Thanked: 65 times in 50 posts

by yatsek » Tue Sep 22, 2009 4:40 pm

Jasper,

I'm glad you liked your trip. Was the bear white in colour? :wink:
As to deaths on Mnich, I haven't found any data but nearly a hundred people have died on Orla Perc (including Zawrat Couloir) in the last 100 years. More recently there have been, on average, two deaths per year, the main reasons being slippery rock or snow patches.

Cheers
Jacek aka yatsek

User Avatar
damgaard

 
Posts: 75
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:06 pm
Thanked: 8 times in 6 posts

by damgaard » Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:28 am

Hi Yatsek

Nope, the bear was a gray haired old and quite chubby guy :P
And apparently he likes blueberries, because we saw a big pile of blue shi* in the middle of the path :D
I can try to upload a photo when I get the time.

I am aware of the high number of casualties on Orla Perc and in the Tatras in general. 4 people died from lightning just two days before we got there. 3 of them on that peak with the cross above Zakopane after what I was told.

However the number of casualties doesn't surprise me. Since Orla Perc is so easily reached from the valleys, a lot of inexperienced climbers make it up there. We saw lots of people in tennis shoes, army pants, t-shirts and nothing more. And this on days with unstable weather :?

Anyways, beautiful mountains!

-jesper

User Avatar
jck

 
Posts: 275
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 11:08 am
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

by jck » Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:41 am

Huh, you know...11 times above 8000 meteres doesn't mean 11 summits...

User Avatar
kamil

 
Posts: 598
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 1:31 pm
Thanked: 22 times in 17 posts

by kamil » Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:34 am

Jesper, congrats on your climbs and nice to hear you liked the Tatras :)
We got some folks who have been over 8000 many times, as jck pointed out that needn't mean 11 summits, difficult to tell if he was a real mccoy or just a big mouth.
Which route did you take to Mnich? And you mean Hruby in Slovakia? Sounds like an interesting trip.
cheers,
k

User Avatar
yatsek

 
Posts: 919
Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:04 pm
Thanked: 65 times in 50 posts

by yatsek » Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:06 am

damgaard wrote:Nope, the bear was a gray haired old and quite chubby guy :P
And apparently he likes blueberries, because we saw a big pile of blue shi* in the middle of the path :D
I can try to upload a photo when I get the time.

So you really didn't stick to Krupowki (Main) Street :lol: Whereabouts did you see the critter? Looking forward to seeing the pic!

damgaard wrote:I am aware of the high number of casualties on Orla Perc and in the Tatras in general. 4 people died from lightning just two days before we got there. 3 of them on that peak with the cross above Zakopane after what I was told.

2 of them died – how quickly numbers can grow – this might explain :?: the number you heard for Mnich.

damgaard wrote:However the number of casualties doesn't surprise me. Since Orla Perc is so easily reached from the valleys, a lot of inexperienced climbers make it up there. We saw lots of people in tennis shoes, army pants, t-shirts and nothing more. And this on days with unstable weather :?

Exactly.

Next

Return to Europe

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests