Oh wait!
There's more ill use of the old Quick Draw!
These Brit and Swiss "Alpine" & "Trad" Climbing blokes are way outta line as well. And not one of em has spent much if any time in a "GYM":
Oh the travesty!
by Kahuna » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:46 pm
by Burchey » Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:56 pm
by Kahuna » Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:55 pm
but there are documented cases of multiple pieces zippering because of bad techniques that are perfectly fine on a sport climb
by Burchey » Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:21 am
by WyomingSummits » Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:47 am
Burchey wrote:
I showed this picture to my old climbing buddy, and he said
"hey, that's pretty cool"
by Kahuna » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:05 am
WyomingSummits wrote: Look, some of your pics are straight jacked up. I see multiple draws linked together with wire gate carabiners? Remind me to never climb with you idiots. Rope lines that look like a fricken lightning bolt....idiocy.
by WyomingSummits » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:33 am
by norco17 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:35 am
by Kahuna » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:48 am
I can give you dozens of examples of death due to complacency.
by WyomingSummits » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:51 am
norco17 wrote:Hey Wyoming why not start a thread saying when to extend and when not to extend your placements that way these n00bs can learn rather than just spreading a bunch of bad information. The words "never" and "always" are often wrong.
by Kahuna » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:55 am
WyomingSummits wrote:... I don't know what a fricken Yates screamer is.
by WyomingSummits » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:04 am
by mattyj » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:10 am
Kahuna wrote:Please do cite one "documented" instance where the primary cause of "zippering" was that of a "Dog Bone Quick Draw" being attached to a TCU/FCU or a wired Stopper.
This accident resulted from a series of combined incidents. Kropp was relatively inexperienced at placing natural gear, and though a powerful athlete, was at his lead limit. The fact that the top cam pulled indicates that it was either placed incorrectly or walked into an insecure position, which is possible since he clipped all of his protection with short, stiff quickdraws.
by Kahuna » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:13 am
WyomingSummits wrote:FOTH page 240. "Runners are used to isolate rope movement from the protection, keeping protection from wiggling or walking from it's intended placement, and also helps minimize friction or rope drag on the climbing rope". Yeah, Freedom of the Hills obviously meant "dogbone sport climbing draws" when they said "runners". Moron. And yeah, I understand twin and double rope technique.
WyomingSummits wrote: but there are documented cases of multiple pieces zippering because of bad techniques that are perfectly fine on a sport climb.
mattyj wrote:Surely you don't actually think that sling length/stiffness has zero correlation to gear walking, especially on wandering pitches?
This accident resulted from a series of combined incidents. Kropp was relatively inexperienced at placing natural gear, and though a powerful athlete, was at his lead limit. The fact that the top cam pulled indicates that it was either placed incorrectly or walked into an insecure position, which is possible since he clipped all of his protection with short, stiff quickdraws.
Another scenario is that Kropp dislodged the piece himself by kicking it with his feet as he climbed past it.
by WyomingSummits » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:25 am
Kahuna wrote:WyomingSummits wrote:... I don't know what a fricken Yates screamer is.
Well that answers that. Nuff said on the source of this thread.
And where is that documented cited ref to back up your claim???
When was the last time you utilized the Double/Twin rope technique, properly?
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests