Waiting in the Tetons

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Northern Rockies. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Northern Rockies Climbing Partners section.
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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Fri Jun 11, 2010 8:57 pm

I, too, will be in the Tetons for about a week after July 4. Eyeballing the East and West Horns, Teewinot, Middle Teton, South Teton, Symmetry, St. John, Rockchuck, etc. So much to do!

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seano

 
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by seano » Fri Jun 11, 2010 8:58 pm

I'll be up there for a week or so in early July (not sure of exact dates), intending to solo a bunch of stuff in the 3-5.4 range. If that sounds interesting, great. If not, I can be convinced to rope up and follow.

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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Fri Jun 11, 2010 9:03 pm

seano wrote:I'll be up there for a week or so in early July (not sure of exact dates), intending to solo a bunch of stuff in the 3-5.4 range. If that sounds interesting, great. If not, I can be convinced to rope up and follow.


What objectives are you tossing around?

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TomSellick

 
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by TomSellick » Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:40 am

Still a lot of snow on the peaks - hasn't been warm too many days, so it's all hanging around. For all you folks coming this way, send me a message - even if only a few beers are in order!

I'm hoping to climb any and everything this summer within reason. Here's hoping to a lot of sunny days in july.

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seano

 
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by seano » Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:28 pm

cp0915 wrote:What objectives are you tossing around?

My tentative list includes Buck (E face, 3), South Teton (4, NW Couloir or W ridge), Teewinot (4, E face), Nez Perce (5.4, NW ledge), Owen (5.4, Koven), possibly Moran (5.5, CMC), and of course the Grand (5.4, up the upper Exum, down Owen-Spalding).

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b.

 
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by b. » Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:56 pm

seano wrote:
cp0915 wrote:What objectives are you tossing around?

My tentative list includes Buck (E face, 3), South Teton (4, NW Couloir or W ridge), Teewinot (4, E face), Nez Perce (5.4, NW ledge), Owen (5.4, Koven), possibly Moran (5.5, CMC), and of course the Grand (5.4, up the upper Exum, down Owen-Spalding).


That's a full week! :D

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seano

 
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by seano » Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:15 am

b. wrote:
seano wrote:
cp0915 wrote:What objectives are you tossing around?

My tentative list includes Buck (E face, 3), South Teton (4, NW Couloir or W ridge), Teewinot (4, E face), Nez Perce (5.4, NW ledge), Owen (5.4, Koven), possibly Moran (5.5, CMC), and of course the Grand (5.4, up the upper Exum, down Owen-Spalding).


That's a full week! :D

I'm not in the Tetons often, so I need to gather me summits while I may. Of course, I may soon realize I'm being completely unrealistic...

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b.

 
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by b. » Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:04 am

That would be a pretty superhuman run of Tetons, ground up, 7 days in a row. Especially Upper Exum, Koven and CMC. If you did those three in a week it would be a great week in the Tetons.

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by Misha » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:11 pm

seano wrote:
b. wrote:
seano wrote:
cp0915 wrote:What objectives are you tossing around?

My tentative list includes Buck (E face, 3), South Teton (4, NW Couloir or W ridge), Teewinot (4, E face), Nez Perce (5.4, NW ledge), Owen (5.4, Koven), possibly Moran (5.5, CMC), and of course the Grand (5.4, up the upper Exum, down Owen-Spalding).


That's a full week! :D

I'm not in the Tetons often, so I need to gather me summits while I may. Of course, I may soon realize I'm being completely unrealistic...


This assumes stellar weather for a week, which is a huge assumption over there. Last August when I climbed Direct Exum, we had to wait for three days before we could have a go at it. Dry spell lasted two days before storms moved in again for several days.

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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Wed Jun 16, 2010 3:23 pm

seano wrote:
cp0915 wrote:What objectives are you tossing around?

My tentative list includes Buck (E face, 3), South Teton (4, NW Couloir or W ridge), Teewinot (4, E face), Nez Perce (5.4, NW ledge), Owen (5.4, Koven), possibly Moran (5.5, CMC), and of course the Grand (5.4, up the upper Exum, down Owen-Spalding).


I've already done Buck (I recommend you go up the east ridge and down the east face), Moran (the CMC was utterly fantastic), and Grand Teton (very good). I'd perhaps be interested in joining you for Teewinot (though I have some concerns about the snow on the east face that early), South Teton and/or Nez Perce. I recall that Owen is a little long for a dayhike, and I'm not interested in any overnighters on this particular trip.

I would agree with the others that doing all of your objectives in a week would be super-human. More realistically, perhaps shoot for Grand Teton (dayhike), Moran (dayhike) and Owen (2 days?), and perhaps Buck and Teewinot. You'd get everything but South Teton and Nez Perce. Not bad!

Misha wrote:This assumes stellar weather for a week, which is a huge assumption over there. Last August when I climbed Direct Exum, we had to wait for three days before we could have a go at it. Dry spell lasted two days before storms moved in again for several days.


True, but I've also climbed in the Tetons three straight July's and had excellent weather for all of it.

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by builttospill » Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:22 pm

I've had very good luck with weather in the Tetons in both July and August over the years. The bigger issue is that, logistically, the schedule is basically impossible. It would be awesome to do all that stuff, but the CMC in a day is really difficult with the canoe across the lake, and you'd have to arrange the canoe the night before, after coming down from another big day hike. I've never done Koven but the other stuff is doable in a day for sure and if you were really, really fit you could maybe recover enough to do back to back to back days ad nauseum, but the CMC is simply not going to happen that way unless you own a canoe, are a very good canoer, know where you're going and are also a very, very strong hiker (6000+ vertical after a fairly long canoe).

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cp0915

 
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by cp0915 » Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:19 pm

I don't see a big deal, assuming a high level of fitness and a reasonable amount of technical ability. The route-finding on Moran is trivial.

You can knock out Buck in a 5 hour car-to-car, then go and grab your canoe. Next day, Moran could be done in 12 hours car-to-car. It's simply not that long a route. Then do another half-day peak the next day so that you can lose the canoe.

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b.

 
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by b. » Wed Jun 16, 2010 7:12 pm

If you don't have to carry any technical gear, it all seems feasible except the Koven. Downclimbing that thing in the spring (skiable in winter, downclimbable in summer, difficult in between) can be sketchy. You would need to be comfortable downclimbing the Drizzlepus on the CMC which is non-trivial. 45-50k vertical in 7 days would be a pretty killer week.

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by rasgoat » Thu Jun 17, 2010 12:24 am

cp0915 wrote:I don't see a big deal, assuming a high level of fitness and a reasonable amount of technical ability. The route-finding on Moran is trivial.

You can knock out Buck in a 5 hour car-to-car, then go and grab your canoe. Next day, Moran could be done in 12 hours car-to-car. It's simply not that long a route. Then do another half-day peak the next day so that you can lose the canoe.


Sounds ridiculous

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by builttospill » Thu Jun 17, 2010 3:26 am

cp0915 wrote:I don't see a big deal, assuming a high level of fitness and a reasonable amount of technical ability. The route-finding on Moran is trivial.

You can knock out Buck in a 5 hour car-to-car, then go and grab your canoe. Next day, Moran could be done in 12 hours car-to-car. It's simply not that long a route. Then do another half-day peak the next day so that you can lose the canoe.


I agree it's not that long of a route. I was in decent but not great shape when W. and I did it from the lakeshore and back in a day and I found it pretty rough. But adding a canoe ride onto both sides of that, complete with portages, would be hard for most people I think. I don't doubt it can be done (I'm sure it HAS been done, probably several times) but putting it in the middle of an otherwise very hard week in the Tetons is probably asking a bit much.

Maybe I just found the canoe ride harder than most people, but it wore me out.

If you could go without any technical gear at all it might make it more feasible.

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