Pitchfork Tower

Overview

Pitchfork Tower is a beautiful tower close to the cliffs of Devils Canyon. Devils canyon is a nice canyon by itself and is located in western Colorado near the town of Fruita). The climbing is fun, adventurous and mostly either chimney or wide crack climbing. The last pitch feels airy despite being in a chimney. 

The route's name is the Depths of Hell - what an appropriate name for a climb located in Devils Canyon!

The summit offers an excellent half day adventure and you can add other towers to your day if you wish. We combined our day with Cowboy Hat Tower, but Phantom Spire would be another great option. 

Summit provides great views over Devils Canyon and towards Fruita. There is a small register up there. 

Rock: sandstone

YDS: 5.8 all trad, there are rappel anchors only

Fist Ascent: Paul Stoner and Lucas Clarke

The approach via Devils Trail. This trail is scenic and popular with hikers and trail runners. The trail higher up becomes a part of Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness area.

I posted more photos than originally planned, but I believe that photos tell more than a description in words. 

Getting There

Access is via Devils Canyon Trailhead. Devils Canyon Trailhead is reached from I-70, Fruita exit for the Colorado National Monument. Shortly after crossing Colorado River, turn west, and follow a smaller road to marked trailhead. There is a large parking lot at the trailhead and a vault toilet. 

The below attached Gaia track shows a route to Cowboy Hat Tower first, and from there we continued to Pitchfork Tower. If Pitchfork Tower is your only objective, follow the main trail and turn onto D3 trail. It is about 2 miles to the tower, and the approach is very scenic. The tower is just a short way up from a trail, easy to spot. 

Route

The route starts on the south side of tower - there is an entry into the "hallway" between the tower and the wall of the canyon. The entry requires a few low 5th class awkward moves to get into. Consider roping up and gearing up prior since the "hallway" is very narrow. About 1/2 way up the "hallway" is a straight beautiful crack, wide to fit camalots sizes 3 and 4. This is the start of the climb. 

Pitch 1: Climb up the fist crack and also use the back wall for your back support - combination of crack and chimney climbing! May be a little hard on shorter people - my partner had hands in the crack and back on the wall, but when I tried to follow the same style, my hands could not reach into the crack while having my back on the wall. Higher up the climbing gets easier and you enter onto the tower's wall leaving the canyon's wall behind you. It is good to set up a belay before entering into another chimney consisting of 3 rock walls. 

Pitch 2: Climb through the window into a chimney consisting of 3 walls. It is wide here and not much protection unles you have some large bros(we did not). Wiggle your way up the chimny using various holds on the walls, about 15 feet up there was a good placement for #3 camalot. There are more placements above for #3 and #4 camalots. You will reach a small hand crack and get onto an easier terrain. We went over south tower to the north summit (with a small tree). There was a summit register (a tin can with wet paper). 

Descent: We down climbed to anchors between two summit blocks (not too hard but a slip here would be fatal) and rappeled to a large ledge. There is an entry from this ledge into the Hallway. No rope needed, enter hallway, initailly very tight, move side ways, then it opens up more. 

Gear: Rope: 1 sixty meter rope, camalots (we used 2 #3 and 2 #4 only, but "walked the camalots in some sections".

 

Red Tape

Hiking, parking and climbing the tower is free. The tower is located within the Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness area, so wilderness rules apply. 

When to Climb

Summers are hot, spring and autumn are the best. Winter as long as there is not too much snow would be fine as well. 

Camping

There is no camping at the trailhead (unless you sleep in your car). You can back pack in and sleep in the canyon. Nearby Fruita and Grand Junction provide a lot of accommodation options.

External Links

 

• Pitchfork Tower on Mountain Project
• Devils Canyon

 

Images

View Pitchfork Tower Image Gallery - 15 Images