is the northern spur of Catinaccio main summit but most consider it as a separate summit (2610 meters).
A view from Gardeccia - the Catinaccio wall, Punta Emma and Vajolet
It is quite famous among climbers for its two classic routes: the Piaz
and the Steger
Haven't climbed the Steger, I can say that the Piaz should be the best choice here, a little more difficult than the other one but fine and amusing:
about 200 m - 6-7 pitches with difficulties not sustained.
The route was opened in solo by Tita Piaz in 1910 !!!
From Gardeccia by a confortable path reach the Refuges Preuss and Vajolet. Along the path from Refuge Preuss to Refuge Re Alberto I° you can easily see the starting of the big crack that can be reached crossing for about 100 m to the left and scrambling for some tens metres.
On the trail to start
follow the red dots ... The way to descent
Scramble (II-III) to the beginning of the big crack till a comfortable ledge.
Straight along the vertical crack (IV), 2 pitches - in the second one there is the key passage of the route (V).
Now you must climb on the left side of the crack, along steep slabs that become easier - 2 pitches.
To the left some metres and then straight on to the summit.
Coming down is not difficult (II°) but requires 1 rappel :
Go along the W ridge till the saddle between Punta Emma and Catinaccio.
Now, scrambling (traces of passage and cairns) till the starting point of the rappel - 25-30 metres.
From here in a little time you can get the path leading to the refuge
50 m long rope and some carabiniers.
The start 1st pitch 2nd pitch 2nd pitch
2nd pitch 3rd pitch 3rd pitch