Punta Emma - Piaz route

Punta Emma - Piaz route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.46030°N / 11.64500°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: V inf (UIAA)
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 6
Additional Information Grade: V
Sign the Climber's Log


Punta Emma is the northern spur of Catinaccio main summit but most consider it as a separate summit (2610 meters).
A view from Gardeccia - the...A view from Gardeccia - the Catinaccio wall, Punta Emma and Vajolet
It is quite famous among climbers for its two classic routes: the Piaz and the Steger.
Haven't climbed the Steger, I can say that the Piaz should be the best choice here, a little more difficult than the other one but fine and amusing:
about 200 m - 6-7 pitches with difficulties not sustained.
The route was opened in solo by Tita Piaz in 1910 !!!


From Gardeccia by a confortable path reach the Refuges Preuss and Vajolet. Along the path from Refuge Preuss to Refuge Re Alberto I° you can easily see the starting of the big crack that can be reached crossing for about 100 m to the left and scrambling for some tens metres.
Punta EmmaOn the trail to start

Route Description

Punta Emma - via Piaz -...follow the red dots ...
N-NW faceThe way to descent

Scramble (II-III) to the beginning of the big crack till a comfortable ledge.
Straight along the vertical crack (IV), 2 pitches - in the second one there is the key passage of the route (V).
Now you must climb on the left side of the crack, along steep slabs that become easier - 2 pitches.
To the left some metres and then straight on to the summit.

Coming down is not difficult (II°) but requires 1 rappel :
Go along the W ridge till the saddle between Punta Emma and Catinaccio.
Now, scrambling (traces of passage and cairns) till the starting point of the rappel - 25-30 metres.
From here in a little time you can get the path leading to the refuge

Essential Gear

50 m long rope and some carabiniers.


1st pitchThe start
1st pitch1st pitch
2nd pitch2nd pitch
2nd pitch2nd pitch
2nd pitch2nd pitch
3rd pitch3rd pitch
3rd pitch3rd pitch



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