Punta Emma - Piaz route

Page Type
Route
Location:
Trento, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
V inf (UIAA)
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
6
Grade:
V

Route Quality: 2 Votes

7183 Hits
75.81% Score
Log in
to vote
Punta Emma - Piaz route
Created On: Sep 25, 2005
Last Edited On: Jan 12, 2009

Overview

Punta Emma is the northern spur of Catinaccio main summit but most consider it as a separate summit (2610 meters).
A view from Gardeccia - the...A view from Gardeccia - the Catinaccio wall, Punta Emma and Vajolet
.
It is quite famous among climbers for its two classic routes: the Piaz and the Steger.
Haven't climbed the Steger, I can say that the Piaz should be the best choice here, a little more difficult than the other one but fine and amusing:
about 200 m - 6-7 pitches with difficulties not sustained.
The route was opened in solo by Tita Piaz in 1910 !!!

Approach

From Gardeccia by a confortable path reach the Refuges Preuss and Vajolet. Along the path from Refuge Preuss to Refuge Re Alberto I° you can easily see the starting of the big crack that can be reached crossing for about 100 m to the left and scrambling for some tens metres.
Punta EmmaOn the trail to start

Route Description

Punta Emma - via Piaz -...follow the red dots ...
N-NW faceThe way to descent

Ascent
Scramble (II-III) to the beginning of the big crack till a comfortable ledge.
Straight along the vertical crack (IV), 2 pitches - in the second one there is the key passage of the route (V).
Now you must climb on the left side of the crack, along steep slabs that become easier - 2 pitches.
To the left some metres and then straight on to the summit.

Descent
Coming down is not difficult (II°) but requires 1 rappel :
Go along the W ridge till the saddle between Punta Emma and Catinaccio.
Now, scrambling (traces of passage and cairns) till the starting point of the rappel - 25-30 metres.
From here in a little time you can get the path leading to the refuge

Essential Gear

50 m long rope and some carabiniers.

Photos

1st pitchThe start
1st pitch1st pitch
2nd pitch2nd pitch
2nd pitch2nd pitch
2nd pitch2nd pitch
3rd pitch3rd pitch
3rd pitch3rd pitch







Punta Emma - Piaz route

Route
14 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Children

1 Articles

Geography

Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Italy

Parents

Punta EmmaRoutes