Right Gully

Page Type
Route
Location:
Bavaria, Germany, Europe
Route Type:
Ice Climbing, Mixed
Season:
Winter
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
WI 4

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Right Gully
Created On: Jan 22, 2007
Last Edited On: Aug 4, 2007

Overview

The right gully is the most interesting and beautiful route of the Jochberg North Face.
You have to climb more of 400 meters.
It’s a short sequence of sheer ice falls and walking passages through snow and firn fields
The route is only possible to climb in cold winters with enough snow and ice.

Getting There

From the last parking range on the right side, under the saddle behind a straight right turn,
cross the street and turn right, ascending through the wood.
When you follow the line up you will find easily the entry of the gully on the right side.
In the beginning you have to shovel through deeper snow to reach the climbable ice
The route follows a natural line.

Route Description

It’s a short sequence of sheer ice falls and walking passages through snow and firn fields.
Mostly the ice steps are between 6 and 20 meters, the highest ice fall is about 30 meters in the middle of the route.
Partially you can find good drilled secure points. Normally, there are good possibilities for secure points, positioning ice screws and slings. Sometimes you can use pine tree branches for your positioning and to belay.
At the exit of the gully you have to walk the last meters towards the left side on the summit of the Jochberg.

Essential Gear

Full Ice climbing equipment,
two 60m ropes,
ice screws,
crampons and ice tools
Helmet!

External Links

A german ice climbing guide published by panico with the Jochberg routes and descriptions:
https://www.panico.de/de/panico_buecher/eiskletterfuehrer/garmisch_bregenz.php

For actual route conditions hav a look at this swiss page:
http://www.bergtour.ch/