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6096 Hits
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74.01% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.67310°N / 8.18100°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Trad Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA IV+, A0 (YDS 5.7) |
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Introduction
Rosenlauistock on the leftRosenlauistock at 2198 meters is the lowest pinnacle of the west group that includes Tannenspitze, Engelburg and Sattelspitzen. One can climb these towers separately or traverse the entire group from west to east.
Approach
From the Engelhorn hut, follow the hut trail towards Rosenlaui until below the NW flank of Rosenlauistock. Here there is an obvious fork in the trail, which leads to the base of the west ridge. Follow this trail, which descends a little until one reaches the beginning of a set of plates, which are climbed to reach a continuation of the trail. Stay on the trail until a prominent gully that descends from the west flank. Follow this gully towards a grassy pass until the beginning of the west ridge proper is seen and traverse over to it on the climber's trail. About 1/2 hour from the hut.If not staying at the hut, watch for the fork on the way up.
Route Description
View up routeThe first pitch of UIAA III reaches a grassy shoulder, which is crossed to the base of a gully. Up the slightly overhanging chimney/gully, which is the crux at UIAA V+ or IV+ A0 to the ridge proper. Now up the ridge crest and through a small talus filled gully, UIAA III. Left out of the gully via a small, steep crack with good holds, UIAA III. Holding to the right, a series of cracks are ascended - UIAA III+ to IV - and then to the left to the base of the actual summit block of Rosenlauistock. Here there are 2 choices. The direct ascent through cracks in two pitches of UIAA IV+ to V or the "Classic"route which first traverses to left into the NW flank (UIAA IV) and over steep rock bands to the summit, UIAA III. 1 1/2 to 2 hours from the base.