RPC's Mount Stuart - North Ridge

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RPC's Mount Stuart - North Ridge
Created On: Aug 23, 2010
Last Edited On: Aug 24, 2010

Summary

Shirley & I climbed this in July of 2005 (via notch vs. complete ridge) from a camp below Ingalls Lake. Very fun! Mostly low 5th class and very well protected where harder. Descending down Cascadian C. was the lowlight of the day (loose scree & boulder fields). One of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

My most vivid recollection from this outing happened the morning after our climb. A pressing need for #1 woke me up and so I got out of the tent and proceeded to relieve myself a few steps away. Eyes still half closed, mind fogged over with remnants of sleep...it was not till they were 20 feet away that I saw an elderly couple hiking in my direction. A further delayed reaction on my part did not help. A full frontal offensive is not what they expected that morning. I recall struggling internally with two options: to apologize or to play it off as if it hadn't happened... I do not recall what heppened next.

Photos

North RidgeCrossing a snowfield before Goat Pass on the approach.

North RidgeCrossing a snowfield above Stuart Glacier on the approach.

North RidgeLooking back at Stuart Glacier and Goat Pass from the starting notch.

North RidgePassing another party a couple hunderd feet up from the starting notch.

North RidgeLeading the low angle slab, roughly pitch 8.

North RidgeLooking back at Shirley belaying me on this pitch.

North RidgeCouple mini-me's on the low angle slab.

North RidgeShirley following the easy slab.

North RidgeShirley on the knife edge traverse of roughly pitch 10.

North RidgeSame knife edge traverse of pitch 10.

North RidgeApproaching The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeLeading pitch 1 of The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeShirley starting up pitch 1 of The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeShirley on pitch 1 of The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeShirley atop pitch 1 belay on The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeStarting up pitch 2 of The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeLooking back towards Shirley belaying me.

North RidgeLeading pitch 2 of The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeEasy climbing just above The Great Gendarme.

North RidgeLeading approx. pitch 15 near the top of the route.

North RidgeShirley just below the summit, roughly pitch 15.

Mount StuartIngalls Peaks from the summit.

North RidgeLooking at Shirley topping out on North Ridge from summit.

Mount StuartShirley starting the descent down the NASTY Cascadian Couloir.






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