Saffres is one of the major climbing sites in Burgundy with more than 400 routes.
First climbers came here in 1938 and opened a dozen routes.
It really became popular from 1955 onwards.
On warm sunny days there can be quite a lot of people, but off-season it becomes a paradise for rock lovers.
Getting There and Staying...
, take Motorway A6 down to exit 23.
There you drive south on road D980 for 6kms to Précy-Sur-Thil
Then turn left on road D70 for 18kms until you reach Vitteaux
Next, another 3 kms on D26. And turn right on D119 for 2 kms, up to Saffres
It is great to camp on the plateau above the cliffs. Nice and cosy during the summer months, but can be a tiny windy and cold in early season.
No water but quiet area. A few climbers stay there at night, there's a good atmosphere.
Otherwise you can head to the local camp sites :
- Camping Municipal St-Nicholas
Tel : 03 80 49 60 87
(Open from May to October / 50 places)
- Camping Le Verger
Tel : 03 80 49 62 08
(Open all year / 6 places)
With more than 400 routes, there is no way you will suffocating on this site.
All levels for all climbers.
The limestone is usually good but a few routes can present dodgy bits.
A helmet is recommended, even if it is all modern equipment.
Here is a description of the main climbing areas :
- LES PREMIERS PAS :
48 routes from 2a to 6b / 4 to 15m
- LA GRANDE FALAISE (1st Part) :
102 routes from 3a to 7c / 20 to 30m
- GRAND COULOIR :
17 routes from 5b to 7c / 22 to 27m
- LE CURE DE MIRAUDE :
5 routes from 3a to 5a / 10m
- L'ENFANT DE CHOEUR :
5 routes from 3c to 6a+ / 20m
- LA GRANDE FALAISE (2nd Part) :
89 routes from 4b to 7c+ / 20 to 30m
- FAIBLE AMPLEUR :
82 routes from 2c to 7b
- TOUR CARRE :
North Face > 9 routes from 4b to 6a / 30m
West Face > 25 routes from 5c to 6c+ / 30m
South Face > 7 routes from 5c to 6c+ / 30m
East Face > 12 routes from 5b to 7a / 30m
- TOUR PENCHEE :
East Face > 14 routes from 3c to 8a / 10 to 25m
West Face > 15 routes from 5c to 8a / 5 to 30m
Books, Maps & Weather
The official Saffres Handbook (1995) is no longer sold. Almost impossible to find on 2nd hand.
A suggestion would therefore be : Bourgogne Onsight
The best map would be :
IGN 2922E Vitteaux
And weather forecast :
Meteo France > Saffres