Sass de Stria South ridge Via Colbertaldo-Pezzotti

Sass de Stria South ridge Via Colbertaldo-Pezzotti

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.51895°N / 11.99724°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: IV, IV+
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 7
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Sass de Stria topo
Sass de Stria topo

 

The Spigolo Cobertaldo-Pezzotti is quite a popular route, running on the South ridge of Sass de Stria. In the summer sunny days, this climb is overcrowded: you can meet alpine-guide with their customers, climbing stages and common climbers and at the belays you'll never be alone. So the hand-holds of the harder passages are nowadays smooth and poolished like marble.
The secret of this success, like for other similar routes, is in the easiness, beautiness, medium length (neither too long, nor too short). In addition, belays are all safely equipped, the descent is by a nice and short path and the approach doesn't take more than 30 minutes...

In my opinion, this route is heartily reccomended for any medium-low skill climber, but start not after 8.00 a.m. if you want to avoid crowd!

Getting there

Falzarego road seen from Spigolo Colbertaldo, Sass de Stria
Falzarego road seen from Spigolo Colbertaldo

 

Various different road approachs are possible depending from where you're coming.

- From Val Pusteria: take the Brennero Highway, exit to Bressanone and take the Val Pusteria, getting Brunico and Dobbiaco; here turn to right to Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin and then Cortina d’Ampezzo. In Cortina take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego on the pass (about 17 km from Cortina)

- From Longarone: follow the road SS 51 to Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; in Pieve turn to left, getting to Cortina d’Ampezzo, and here take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. Park the car as for the previous point.

- From San Cassiano and La Villa in Val Badia (North): by Valparola Pass (route SP37 and SP24, about 10Km from San Cassiano)

- From Alleghe: by Caprile and Falzarego pass (route SR203 and SR48, about 25Km form Alleghe)

Leave the car at a parking area along the route between Falzarego and Valparola pass, near a big rock. From there, take the path descending towards the sport climbing area. Leave it on your right and go up along the rocky east side of Sass de Stria. Cross an area of mugo pine, then climb toward the south edge east face. A peg signs the start of the route (30min from the parking)

Route Description

Topo of the route
Topo of the route

 

 

Difficulty: IV with the last pitch of IV+ UIAA (avoidable by a couloir with pp of III)
Lenght: 250m, 7/8 pitches
Altitude: 2250m-2477m
Rock quality: Very good, but often smooth
Best season to climb: since middle June to the end of September

First climb: A. Cobertaldo - L. Pezzotti, 1939 


Cobertaldo-Pezzotti route is relatively easy and amusing: the route climbs the South edge at the beginning on its East face, then on the true edge, finally traversing under its east face and taking a crag straight to the summit.  Belays are all equipped with fixed iron rings. There are some pegs along the pitches, but consider the possible need of integrate the protections with further gears.

Walking approach

From Passo Falzarego looking in the direction of Valparola Sass de Stria is easily identifiable with its obvious Southern edge. Continue in the direction of Passo Valparola up to a large boulder, on the left of the road, where you park in a narrow place. Go down into the valley below and take the path that climbs sharply to the left (face upstream) along the south-east wall. Once near the edge, leave the path and follow a marked track rising up in the direction of the ridge at the base of which is the start.

L1 - Climb up a couloir (II). At the end of the couloir, bear on the left (III): the belay is behind a rock (25m, 1 peg, II 1p III)

L2 - Climb a polished dihedral (IV, peg) then climb to the edge (III+) to the belay (30m, 1 peg, IV)

L3 - Keep climbing on the edge to the next belay (25m, 2 pegs, IV)

L4 - Move on your right to a chimney (IV, 2 fixed ring) then, at the exit of the chimney, climb on your left to a terrace (25m, 2 fixed rings, IV IV-)

L5 - Climb up a cliff (III+), move around the edge on the right and climb up a crack (blocked friend) to a fixed ring (35m, possibility of belay); continue climbing to a chimney with an embedded rock (peg on the left); enter in the chimney (II but exposed) and make belay (45m, 1 fixed ring, 1 blocked friend, 1 peg, IV)

L6 - Walk along a ledge to a couloir; climb up the couloir (I, 1 p. IV) and exit on a terrace (25m, walk, I, 1p IV)

L7 - From the terrace, climb directly the dihedral with crack (IV+, 2 pegs, very polished, good hand-holds on the left) for about 15m, then on easy slabs and gravels to the summit: you can belay on a rock or on the big iron cross (50m, 2 pegs, IV+, III/II)

This pitch, the harder of the route, can be avoided climbing an easy couloir on the right of the dihedral (passages of III), leading to the summit


P2 the dihedral

P3

P4 the chimney



Pitch 5: an easy cliffP.5

 


P6 the easy couloir

P5 (by cingolo)

P5 the chimney



Pitch 3: along the edgeP3: amusing climb!

 


P7: the crux

P7

P7




Descent</font size>

The descent is by the well marked normal route: 45min to Forte Intraisass, then 10min along the route to passo Falzerego, to the parking (see also Sass de Stria page)

Descending by the normal routeDescending by the normal route

Essential Gear

 

Pitch 3: party in outside lane!


Helmet
Some narrow slings and cords
Some friends medium size
Some pitons and nuts
Two 60 m ropes

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

Accomodation

On Falzarego Pass and Valparola Pass there are some huts and hotels:
Accomodations in Lagazuoi-5 Torri area

When to climb

Best months are June, July, August, September, but also autumn and late spring can be good.

Bibliography 

Guide, Maps and Books:
Best map (scale 1:25000) is Tabacco Foglio 03
Best guide is Bernardi, Arrampicare a Cortina d'Ampezzo e dintorni, ed. Athesia, 2005 (also in german)

Meteo Forecast

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

External Links

Other report of this route:

Pareti Verticali
Sassbaloss





Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.