South Face of Mt. Muir

Page Type: Route
Route Type: Mountaineering
Season: Summer
Time Required: Most of a day
Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches: 9
Grade: IV

The South Face of Mount Muir


A plesant climb at altitude offering superb jam cracks, snow climbing and possibly verglas rock. Can be done in a very long day from Whitney Portal.

Getting There

Hike the Whitney Trail from Whitney Portal to Trail Camp. Leave trail and hike up snowfield to the base of the South Face

Route Description

The South Face of Mt. Muir climbs from the lowest point jutting into the snowfield on the South Face proper. It climbs dihedrals and cracks for four pitches (including a wild step off a detached pinnacle into an overhanging hand crack). A ledge is reached. Either continue straigh up a very clean right facing dihedral or climb broken face to it's left to the summit ridge. Two more pitches of 3rd and 4th class to summit. First ascent was completed in a single day from Whitney Portal.Start: 6am;Base of Route: 11am; Summit:8pm Traverse across snowfield on trail:9pm (very icy - no ice axes!) Finish 1:30am Asleep in Alabama Hills: 2am

Essential Gear

Typical mountaineering rack, extra runners and maybe a short axe or half-crampons depending on season

External Links

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