South - west approach from the valley Maurer Tal

Page Type
East Tyrol (Venediger group), Austria, Europe
Route Type:
Hiking, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
One to two days
Basic Glacier Climb and in the upper part steep scrambling, UIAA I-II on some parts

Route Quality: 1 Votes

2055 Hits
74.92% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
South - west approach from the valley Maurer Tal
Created On: Sep 7, 2007
Last Edited On: Sep 8, 2007

Getting There

For the south approach you have to follow the road until Matrei, then the Virgental to the end of the valley to the village Streden, 1403m where there is a parking place. You have to pay 3 euros for one day or 9 euros for one week.

From the parking place you must reach the hut Essener-Rostocker, 2208m over the long valley Maurer Tal. The route is well marked. You will need from 2-3 hours to the hut.

Route Description

Grosser Happ, 3350m and the normal approach.Grosser Happ, 3350m and its west side. You have to find the best passages to the summit.

From the hut you follow the signposts for the Johannis hütte. From the hut you go in the north direction. First you cross the crossing with the route to Simonyspitze, 3488m and then also the crossing with the route to the pass Maurertörl, 3108m. Here you turn to the right and you reach the marked route to the altitude around 2500 meters.

From here you turn to the north direction and over the best passages you reach the upper grassy and rocky plateau below the glacier. From here you go just below the glacier as far you can. When become too much steeper you step on the glacier and around the crevasses you reach the large steep west slope that falls directly from the summit of Grosser Happ.

Just before you come on this slope you have to climb a short passage around UIAA I-II from the glacier. Now you have to reach the summit all the way up over the steep west slope. Be careful in icy and snowy condition. You have to find the best passages on your own.

You descend by the same route. From the hut you will need for the ascent around 3-4 hours.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, ropes and crampons are necessary.