Southwest Ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
Colorado, United States, North America
Route Type:
Scramble
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
class 4

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Created On: Jan 10, 2005
Last Edited On: Jan 10, 2005

Approach




Round Trip-12 miles and 2,800-ft of vertical gain


Starting at the Lost Man Creek Trail at 10,675-ft hike about .3 mile to Lost Man Reservoir and cross to the west side of the reservoir. Continue following the excellent pack trail another 5 miles to South Fork Pass at 11,800-ft. The view west of UN13,328 is obvious and may be a little intimidating if your not comfortable with your mountaineering experience level. If you are comfortable with your experience level, UN13,328 looks totally awesome!

From South Fork Pass, leave the trail and hike up into a lush basin under UN13,328’s great south face. Locate a saddle between UN13,202 and UN13,328, next locate the hour-glass-couloir that will escort you to this saddle. This couloir is a little steeper and dangerous than it looks due to potential rock fall. Wear a helmet. One at a time, climb up this loose couloir and reach the saddle.

Route Description


From the saddle climb the southwest ridge up class 2+ blocks of granite, past a few rock towers. After a few hundred feet of mostly class 2+ and class 3 climbing, the ridge really narrows. Careful route finding is key from here to the summit.

At about 13,230-ft the ridge makes an abrupt jump to the summit; you will know when you have reached this point, it is obvious. The following 100-ft is an intense scramble, consisting of easy class 4, on solid rock. Within this class 4 section of ridge, expect one or two difficult and committing class 4 “stretch” moves. The exposure here is big and intense, but short lived.

Essential Gear


Helmet