•The Book of Prophesy Variation- 3 Pitches- 5.8
Sticky Revelations is worth its own route page due to the vast number of variations up this classic route on Prophesy Wall
north of Saint George, Utah at 4200’. I have done most of the routes on Prophesy Wall and without question, the better rock is at the west end where Sticky Revelations is located. Sticky Revelations, Exodus Variation, Book of Prophesy and All Decked Out can all be mixed and matched to your liking.
My recommendation is to always start the route with All Decked Out, a sustained 70’ of 5.8 edging on solid varnish. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” is out of date regarding “All Decked Out”. He labeled it R/X and “a lesson on how not to bolt a sport route”. Somebody, probably Todd, has bolted it straight up since, 9 bolts to anchor.
After All Decked Out at 5.8, you have several 2nd pitch options, both of which are great 5.8’s. Straight up is a bolted 5.8 that leads to the 5.10a third pitch of Sticky Revelations or to the left is a classic trad 5.8, Book of Prophesy, up a crack corner pitch that also takes you to the third pitch of Sticky Revelations.
Or you can exit from the top of either of these 2nd pitches via the Exodus Variation, a 5.3 traverse over to The Visionaries, 5.10c, rappel anchors.
- Sticky Revelations – 3 Pitches- 5.10a/ The first pitch is a very easy 5.7 to a substantial belay ledge to the right of a big trad corner (Book of Prophesy). Then traverse out right for the start of the 2nd pitch which is a blast 5.8 up a crack and over a flake. We combined these last two pitches, so 12 bolts to the top of Prophesy Wall after the 1st pitch. Two raps with double 60m ropes, three otherwise. The crux 5.10 move is left over a hollow flake towards the top. Fun route, good training one. Can be a kind of a busy section of Prophesy Wall on spring weekends though. (photos)
- The Exodus Variation- 3 Pitches- 5.8/ This bolted 5.3 escape to the east of the top of Sticky Revelation's 2nd pitch or Book of Prophesy and reduces the overall route down to 5.8. Not worth doing (you have rap chains at the top of the 2nd pitch options) unless you want to check out The Visionaires, 5.10c on rappel.
- The Book of Prophesy Variation- 3 Pitches- 5.8/ Buying into this variation allows you to mix it up with a great trad corner-crack that leads to the same location as the 2nd pitch of Sticky Revelations. Traverse left from whichever route you chose for pitch 1 on a substantial ledge into the corner. There is a belay/rappel station located here. The corner is easy to protect, but Todd references small to medium pro, when in reality, you can place your #5 Camelot perfectly in a place where you would want it. On the contributing route photo, I show where that is. Since I did not bring my #5, I placed my #4 in a spot where it probably would not hold making the top of the route somewhat run out. This is a great pitch for training trad leading because you must place two small nuts as well as at least one TCU along with your Camelot’s. The crux is early and then face features to the right start to appear making the pitch go at 5.8. You will pass one bolt further up as you enter the white band of rock which is not worth protecting. This section is a little run out. You have a station directly above for the continuation of Sticky Revelations or you can go left to a station on a large ledge for the Exodus Variation.
- All Decked Out- 3 Pitches- 5.8/ A sustained 70’ of 5.8 edging on solid varnish. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” is out of date regarding “All Decked Out”. He labeled it R/X and “a lesson on how not to bolt a sport route”. Somebody, probably Todd, has bolted it straight up since, 9 bolts to anchor. Tiny roof mantle in between. Then continue on any variation you want for another 1-2 pitches.
Double 60m ropes will get you to the ground from the top of Prophesy Wall via two raps, no matter the location. You can make one rap from the top of either of the 2nd pitch variations. There are mid rappel stations left and right. If you load up on draws
, like 15-20 between partners, then you will be able to combine quite a few of the pitches if utilizing proper double rope management on lead. Remember, you are several thousand feet higher than St. George, so if you are visiting Prophesy Wall in the winter, bring a decent jacket. I have been pelted with hail in May!
Some of these routes are still quite loose. Helmets are never a bad idea. Bring your #5 Camelot, smaller stoppers, #3 TCU and several other Camelot’s in between.
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