SW summit - SW ridge

Overview

An easy route. I went from 5350m where I had my base camp. Don't remember how long it took. Easy to do in a day. No need for camp on the glaciers. Possible problems are deep snow, hard wind and watch out for crevasses (not big risk).

Getting There

See main page for first part.
When you spot the mountain from the west head for a deep valley. It is almost in between the two highest points.

Route Description

BC = 34°47'55.44"N 82°17'20.43"E
A bit to your left there are some valleys. Look up and see the end of a glacier. Go to the left and follow the moraine under the glacier ice wall. A narrow gap tell you you are on the right way. Walk on to the glacier or go on the side on rocks. Soon you are you of the valley and see the big snow field. A snowy ridge is in front of you in the distance. Walk towards it. Not to much to the right! Crevasses lower down. The snowy ridge is lower in the middle. Go there. On the saddle you see the SW summit ridge. Half traverse on the ridge's slopes not to loose much altitude. When you have no use of the ridge anymore cross the snow field to the bottom of the summit ridge. Climb up on the cornice ridge side. Steeper and easier than the deep snow on the face. On top of the cornice ridge you see the summit one kilometer away. Watch out for breaking cornice on the right side. The last part is little steeper. This is an easy ascent. You hardly need crampons.

Essential Gear

Warm dress.
Snow shoes can be very good.

View

N and NW - Keriya and Qong Muztagh range and peaks.
NW and E - Beginning of the Chang Tang Plateau.
E - The emptiness of the western brink of the Chang Tang.
S - Many far away mountains without names and saline lakes.
SW - Memar Range and Loutou Co.
W - Two large salt lakes. Puer Co is the north one. I have forgotten the name of the other.

Images

View SW summit - SW ridge Image Gallery - 5 Images